Bath Food Festival, Afternoon Tea at the Bath Priory and Italian Lardo!

Bath is a 90 minute train journey from London's Paddington Station, but is to me, a completely different world. A quintessentially English town, Bath has beautifully tended gardens, imposing Georgian houses and impressive crescents. It feels like the perfect setting for one of Jane Austen's many novels, one of Bath's most illustrious residents (Nicolas Cage being another!).

This summer, I was pleased to return to this lovely town to visit its food festival (Bath Food Festival) and to meet "Sam Moody", head chef of The Bath Priory Hotel, who was also doing a cookery demonstration at the festival.

 

Food festivals and markets of this kind are among the most enjoyable ways I find of spending my time (apart from eating of course). I had a great time tasting and purchasing some of the fine merchandise on offer and chatting to a variety of local producers specialising in foodstuffs from cheese to extra virgin rapeseed oil, chutneys and conserves.

Among these producers were Christian and Rebecca, a delightful couple and founders of Bread Tree, a company specialising in the importing niche and relatively unknown products made by Italian artisans.

I bought a large piece of spicy "LARDO" from them - a type of Italian "salume" (charcuterie), lardo is pork fat cured with rosemary and other herbs and spices, and is normally very thinly sliced and served as topping on grilled "bruschetta" bread. It is similar to Sarlo (the Russian equivalent), and it is a real delicacy.

It was great to meet Sam Moody (The Bath Priory's head chef) and see him in action during his cookery demonstration. Sam cooked a delicious risotto made of different types of fish and seafood, herbs including chervil, tarragon and dill and with plenty of mascarpone and parmesan cheese for extra creaminess and flavour. The risotto was beautifully dressed with Richard Vine's seasonal micro herbs and tasted divine.

The star of the show however was his Hinton Estate beef, purchased from Bartlett & Sons butchers in Bath, and cooked at a constant temperature of 48℃ in Sam's sous vide bath (talk about kitchen envy...).

The meat was then carefully browned and served with a medley of pan-fried wild mushrooms including morel and girolle.

I also attended a wine seminar by Neil Phillips (writer of the The Wine Tipster) who was doing a tasting of "Wines of Rioja". Neil is a great speaker and introduced us to a range of different Riojas including a white (2007 Cosme Palacio) and a most sensational 1995 Gran Reserva called Campillo Tinto which is 100% tempranillo.

Our final stop was at The Bath Priory for afternoon tea at one of the town's most elegant hotels and spas. Sue Williams (our host and the hotel's general manager) gave us a little tour of this luxury, boutique hotel before showing us into the sitting room.

Winner of a Gold Award as the Best Small Hotel in 2009/10, The Bath Priory is a haven of tranquillity and good taste. It is a privately owned and relatively small hotel which feels more like a stately home than a hotel.

The dainty sandwiches, cakes and scones were freshly baked on the premises and tasted delicious @ £17.50 including a tea of choice.

We were also served a lovely sausage roll, and as an extra dessert, panna cotta topped with jam and berries.

I thoroughly enjoyed my day in Bath, and look forward to returning in 2011 for more Bath Food Festival, afternoon tea at The Bath Priory Hotel and Italian lardo! Many thanks to Syamala of Sauce Communications and to Sue Williams of The Bath Priory for being the perfect hosts.

Picnic at Henley Royal Regatta by Fernandez and Leluu and Ryvita

With days becoming shorter and light winter jackets making a come-back as Autumn inevitably looms, my thoughts go back to the relatively good summer we enjoyed this year. For me, one of the most memorable events this summer was a picnic held at Henley Royal Regatta, organised by Uyen and Simon (of Fernandez and Leluu fame) and sponsored by the good people of Ryvita.

(Pictures courtesy of Greedy Diva)

Joining us on the day were some of my most loved food bloggers - Su-Lin (Tamarind and Thyme), Carly (Greedy Diva), Mimi (Meemalee's Kitchen), Laura (Feast on Scraps) and Rachael (Violets Curd). Simon and Uyen were in charge of the food and what a spread - no tubs of hummus or packs of crisps in sight, but happily, one of the most gastronomic picnics I have ever seen.

(Pictures courtesy of Fernandez and Leluu)

An assortment of cold meats including French pork rillette and ham, Spanish Serrano ham, Italian salami and pork and peppercorn pate were the perfect accompaniment to the different types of French cheeses from La Bouche of Broadway Market which were served on Ryvita crispbreads.

(Picture courtesy of Fernandez and Leluu)

Fresh fish and seafood, purchased at "Fin and Flounder" also from Broadway Market, were served as "sashimi tuna with a wasabi and soya dressing", while enormous prawns were barbecued on site and accompanied platefuls of fresh, green samphire.

(Pictures courtesy of Fernandez and Leluu)

Freshly shucked Northern Rock oysters were served with lemon and Tabasco and were utterly delicious.

(Pictures courtesy of Fernandez and Leluu)

A selection of different breads, baguettes, berries and grapes, and a gorgeous Caprese style salad made of yellow and red tomatoes, fresh mozzarella cheese and basil completed a most magnificent spread. Simon's Russian Salad was one of the biggest hits as was Uyen's strawberry and blueberry trifle made of homemade cake and fruit that had been soaked in plenty of Cointreau and tasted divine.

(Picture Courtesy of Fernandez and Leluu)

A few bottles of Laurent Perrier were being knocked about (a big thanks to Su-Lin for topping up my glass with her share, gotta LOVE my teetotal friends) which helped to assuage the scorching heat on the day and wash down Fernandez and Leluu's impeccable food.

(Picture courtesy of Fernandez and Leluu)

So entranced were we with the delicious food, champagne and company that we completely missed the race, entering the enclosure about 5 minutes before the end of the event! What a lovely day nevertheless. Many thanks to Fernandez and Leluu, Ryvita and Wild Card PR for inviting me to Henley Royal Regatta.

(Picture courtesy of Fernandez and Leluu)

Polo, Veuve Cliquot Champagne & The Hangover Test

Does Good Quality Champagne Avoid Hangover?

When I was driving around Champagne three years ago, I was lucky enough to visit a few Champagne Houses and meet some interesting producers there. One of the things I heard on more than one occasion, which stuck in my mind, was that good quality champagnes do not cause hangover.

I’d never given this too much thought, dismissing it as pure marketing. Whether an urban myth or just excellent PR, when I heard from James Lacey of Mission to invite me for an afternoon of Polo at the Veuve Cliquot Gold Cup event in Cowdray Park, I thought my moment had finally come to put this theory to the test (the things I will do for this blog!).

The event was on a gloriously hot English summer's day - an elegant and well-heeled crowd (many of whom arrived by helicopter) lounged around the grand Veuve Cliquot marquee - the Champagne was chilled and free flowing and the most delicious canapés were served by the beautiful staff.

The deep-fried quail eggs in truffled parmesan breadcrumbs were particularly fine as were the creamed feta cheese in watermelon cases.

High tea was also served later in the day with Veuve Cliquot Rosé Champagne in glass tea cups, with cucumber sandwiches, pastries and cakes galore. This is not a kind of event I would normally attend, but I greatly enjoyed my day at Cowdray and the opportunity to put the hangover theory to the test.

Having now done a bit of research on this, I found no scientific studies carried out on the subject but came across a plethora of contradictory articles. The ones supporting the theory, seem to base their rationale on either the “Degorgement” stage of the “Methode Champenoise”, or the low use of added Sulphites (SO2) in Champagne (a type of preservative which in wines is used as an anti-oxidant), whilst others focus on the concept of "natural wines".

The Methode Champenoise

The “Method Champenoise” is fascinating and consists of 5 different stages (for a brief explanation, see footnote*). The step which some argue is closely associated with the prevention of hangover from Champagne is called "Degorgement”.

In this phase, the added yeast is encouraged to move downwards towards the cork where it settles. To remove the big lump of yeast and other impurities from the wine, the neck of the bottle is frozen, and the pressure of the fizz pushes the ice out with the yeast encased in it when the bottle is unsealed.

Use of Sulphites in Champagne

All wines contain sulphur dioxide in various forms, and these are collectively known as sulphites. Even in completely unsulphured wines (when sulphur is not added), it is still present at concentrations of up to 1o mg per litre (mg/l) and is a natural result of the fermentation process that turns grape juice into alcohol.

High levels of SO2 have been proven to cause allergic reactions in those sensitive to it, and are believed to be closely associated with other health problems including hangover. This is possibly because sulphites destroy thiamine (vitamin B1) and are thought to destroy folic acid. While red wines require no added SO2 (they naturally contain anti-oxidants from the grapes’ skin), white wines including Champagne, are given larger doses as they are more prone to oxidation.

The level of SO2 in Veuve Cliquot Champagnes is between 40 and 55 mg/l. By law, the maximum level of SO2 for the “High Quality Sparkling Wine” category (a category defined by French regulations which includes Champagne) is 185 mg/l. Veuve Cliquot has therefore very low levels of SO2 in their Champagnes which might help avoiding the onslaught of hangover.

Natural Wines

It would be great to be able to blame sulphites for my self-inflicted woes but if anything it has made me look at “natural wines” in a different light. Natural wine is made in small quantities, on low-yielding vineyards, with handpicked organic grapes. The wine is then made without added sugars or foreign yeasts, and often without any sulphur dioxide either. It is boutique viticulture and has a price tag (70% of all natural wine produced in France is sold to Japan). Terroirs (review here), one of my favourite wine bars in London, sells some of these natural wines.

The scientific evidence to support the argument that sulphites are responsible for hangovers is flimsy however. Dr Jamie Goode, the author of Wine Science, asserts:

“The standard message is that some asthmatics are sensitive to sulphites, but the evidence indicates that adverse reactions to sulphites are rare and at the levels used in wine it's unlikely that people will be affected. The strongest argument for not using sulphites during winemaking, and just a little at bottling, seems to be that the natural wines thus produced seem to show greater aromatic purity, better texture and are just a bit different. I've liked many that I've tried, even though as a scientist I know that it's risky from a microbiological point of view, as there's nothing to keep the bugs out or maintain the wine's stability.”

John Townley, a friend I made during my days at the Dulwich Wine Society, works for the WSET (Wine and Spirit Education Trust) and believes it is a myth that Champagne does not cause hangover. His reasoning is that “hangovers” are primarily caused by alcohol withdrawal and since champagne of any quality is relatively lower in alcohol than many sparkling wines, it is less likely to give hangovers. It may also be that the high cost of Champagne precludes most people from drinking enough of it to sustain a hangover.

The Conclusion

Whether these theories are urban myth or not, I admit to being surprisingly clear headed and without a trace of hangover after my day spent at the Veuve Cliquot Gold Cup event. Having suffered after over-indulging in other types of sparkling wines, I feel there may be a grain of truth in these theories. I do not believe however that Champagne replaces the need for good hydration, moderation of intake, and having food whilst drinking.

What is your experience with Champagne and other sparkling wines? I would be interested in readers' views.

* The Champenoise Methode

In the “First Fermentation” stage, the 3 types of grapes permitted, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, are pressed and fermented in large vats. The fermentation is stopped before it is complete by chilling the vats so that some natural sugar is still left in the wine.

The next stage, allegedly invented by Dom Perignon, is called “Blending”. This is when wines from different areas of the region and from different years are blended together until a desired taste is achieved. When the blend is right, the wine is bottled with some extra yeast.

The “Secondary Fermentation” stage can take up to two years and is when the added yeast acts on the sugar by turning it into carbon dioxide, giving the wine its natural fizz. When the secondary fermentation is complete, all the natural sugar in the grapes is used up and the resulting wine tastes so dry as to be undrinkable.

The penultimate stage is called “Degorgement” and is the step which some argue is closely associated with the prevention of hangover from good quality Champagne. In this phase, the added yeast is encouraged to move towards the cork where it settles. To achieve this, the bottles are stored with the cork pointing downwards and regularly and gently shaken to facilitate the process. To remove the big lump of yeast and other impurities from the wine, the neck of the bottle is frozen, and the pressure of the fizz pushes the ice out with the yeast encased in it when the bottle is unsealed.

The last stage known as “Topping-up and Corking” is when the Champagne is tested for dryness. As some of the wine is lost when the yeast is removed, the bottle is topped with a mixture of sweet white wine and sugar. Depending how much sugar is used, the resulting bottle will vary from “Brut” (very dry) to “Doux” (very sweet). A new cork is then put in the bottles.