Matching Japanese Food and Wine

Below is a piece I wrote on matching Japanese food and wine for the Real Wine Fair taking place in London on 20-22nd May 2012.

I am often asked in my Japanese supper clubs which wines diners should bring to match the food I serve.  Traditionally, and to a large extent to this day, food in Japan is served with sake or beer.  In recent years however, wine (along with other typically Western products such as cheese and butter) has gained a substantial share of the market especially among the younger generation.

When I lived in Tokyo, I drank my fair share of sake, with or without food, and really enjoyed it.  Old habits die hard though, and I found it difficult to manage without wine.  I was able to enjoy every local dish I cooked with a glass of wine, confirming my belief that almost any Japanese food can be matched with a quality wine.

One of the rules of thumb when matching food and wine is to match locally produced wine and food.  What to do though, when some of the primary flavours of the cuisine come from soy sauce, fermented soya beans and air dried fish with no locally produced wine to match?  It can be tricky.  Partnering Japanese food and western wines requires some careful thought because of the differences in flavour combination between Europe and Japan. A little understanding of Japanese cuisine goes a long way here.

To continue reading this article, visit the Real Wine Fair link HERE.    

London Restaurant Reviews - Portal (Portuguese Fine Dining in Clerkenwell)

I have always had a soft spot for Portuguese cuisine, it brings back memories of some of the wonderful food I grew up eating in Brazil - Bolinho de Bacalhau, Pasteis de Nata, and Pork and Clams Alentejano to name a few. Porto is also one of my favourite cities in the world for many reasons including its fine seafood and wine, and I have been going there regularly for a few summers now (more here).

Portugal is also one of the very few countries in the world that have maintained and cultivated their native grapes for wine production, developing some fantastic wines of great finesse. These days when the range of grape varietals cultivated across the world is increasingly narrow, it is wonderful to see  some exciting and relatively unknown indigenous grapes being used to make the distinctive wines of Portugal.

So when I heard that Porto-born chef Jeronimo Abreu, who trained at the prestigious Ecole Superieur de Cuisine Francaise Ferrandi in Paris, had taken over the kitchen as Portal's new head chef, I decided to pay them a visit.

Opened in 2005, Portal is an elegant Clerkenwell restaurant serving a selection of Iberian tapas and traditional Portuguese dishes with a contemporary twist and an unrivalled range of Portuguese wines and Port (reputedly, the most extensive Portuguese wine cellar in London). Portal has a bar area at its entrance where guests can just pop in and enjoy a glass of Port, Portuguese beer or wine with a plate of tapas of their choice. The tall bamboo trees against the exposed brickwork encased in glass, the careful lighting and the beautiful but understated decor give this restaurant an air of discreet refinement which is pleasing and very Portuguese. 

On our visit, Dr G and I started at the bar sharing a plate of 50g Pata Negra (DOP Senorio Montanera) @ £17 served with various pickles and accompanied by a glass of chilled Terras do Demos Rose @ £9.50 (by Coop.A.Do.Tavoro). This was a delightful and refreshing wine made from the Touriga Nacional varietal, one of Portugal's finest grapes also used in the blend for Port wine.

We then moved on to the restaurant area, where we enjoyed a starter of crab and mussels spicy soup with coriander @ £8 and another of sautéed scallops served on tomato and olive brioche @ £14 which were both delightful.

The "Feijoada de Bacalhau" with asparagus, spinach and coriander @ £30 (for 2 people) was next. I love the Brazilian "feijoada" which is made from different cuts of pork and sausages but the Portuguese salted cod version was a first for me. The beans were soft and perfectly cooked as was the asparagus which still retained a nice bite. The bacalhau fillets were surprisingly good with the combination of beans, asparagus and other greens making for a hearty stew. 

For main Dr G had a plate of "Braised Bisaro (a Portuguese pig which is part-boar) with Green Asparagus and Chorizo Açorda" (bed of mixed bread, vegetables and chorizo) @ £22. The meat was meltingly tender having been marinated and cooked over many hours, and was very pleasing.

I very much enjoyed Dr G's braised bisaro, but whenever I go to Portuguese restaurants I tend to order what I feel the Portuguese excel at - bacalhau (salted cod). And so I ordered a plate of "Roasted Bacalhau with Black Eyed Peas Migas and Sautéed Turnip Greens" @ £20. It did not disappoint. The bacalhau was perfectly cooked, with a good firm texture, and just the right degree of saltiness.  It was sympathetically partnered with rich olive oil flavours of the migas, and the turnip greens. It is a dish I order frequently whenever I am in Portugal, where the migas are more commonly made with corn bread.  However, I thoroughly enjoyed Jeronimo's version with black eyed peas migas. 

One of the wonderful aspects of this restaurant is the opportunity to sample an array of fine Portuguese cheeses with a variety of Port and Madeira wines.  By this stage in the evening, we were rather full and skipped the cheeses, but were lucky enough to sample a wide range of their fortified wines ranging from bone dry to unctuously sweet - an experience I would heartily recommend to diners in view of the rarity of this experience and the sophistication of the wines.

For dessert, we opted for the Pasteis de Nata with cinnamon ice-cream @ £8, Figs Fondant with Figs Carpaccio @ £10 and, in a moment of gluttonous madness, the Coconut Crème Brulée with Apple and Strawberry Mille Feuille @ £7.  Pasteis de Nata are a quintessential Portuguese snack, and the version on offer at Portal is my opinion one of the best in London.  They were magnificent - rich, sweet burnt custard in a flaky pastry case, accompanied by a creamily intense cinnamon ice-cream. 

The coconut crème brulée was also wonderful, and endearingly eccentric in its upside-down presentation, nicely teamed with a glass of Madeira Barbeito "10 year old Sercial". The star of the show however was the figs fondant, gorgeously showcasing the excellent attributes of this much neglected fruit, and well worth the extra 10 minute wait. It was perfectly matched with a glass of Madeira Barbeito "Malvasia Reserva" @ £9.50.

Overall, I was very impressed with Portal, and I had better food here than I have found in Portugal.  Service was attentive without being intrusive, and the surroundings are discretely elegant.  The wine list is outstandingly good.  

Cost: A three course dinner costs around £40 per person, excluding drinks.  


Likes:  Refined surroundings, excellent service, wonderful food and probably the best and most extensive Portuguese cellar in London.


Dislikes: The only three-course set menu available for lunch and dinner at £40 per person is (in my opinion) a little steep, and it would be good to have more affordable food and wine options particularly at lunch or for the set dinner.

Verdict: Excellent Iberian cooking by new Porto chef Jeronimo Abreu in this well-established fine dining Portuguese restaurant in the heart of Clerkenwell.  One of the best and most extensive cellars of Portuguese wines, Ports and Madeiras in the UK, and the place to learn about the best that Portugal has to offer in food, wine and hospitality. Highly recommended.

**WIN A PAIR OF TICKETS TO THE REAL WINE FAIR - LONDON, 20 to 22 MAY 2012**

The inaugural Real Wine Fair is a wine tasting event, celebrating those in the wine trade who work organically or biodynamically in the vineyards and winery. Over 170 growers and winemakers will be presenting over 600 wines, made as naturally as possible. Visitors to The Real Wine Fair can meet and talk to the winegrowers, whilst having the opportunity to taste a diverse range of honest, terroir-driven wines.

And here is your opportunity to win a pair of tickets to this fabulous event.

HOW TO ENTER THIS COMPETITION

To enter this competition, simply leave a comment in this post stating your NAME and E-MAIL address as MrBloggs(at)gmail(dot)com by midday on Friday 11th May 2012. The lucky winner will be randomly selected using random.org and his/her name will be announced via Twitter (follow @thelondonfoodie) soon after midday on the 11th May 2012.

If you do not use Twitter, I will also be publishing the winner's name here in the evening of the 13th May 2012.

Good luck!

The winner of this competition, randomly selected by random.org, was Samantha Whitlam, entrant number 11. Well done Samantha, and many thanks for entering the competition.

Time Out's "101 Best Things to Do in London" - My Top 5 Recommendations

To see my recommendations for Time Out's "101 Best Things to Do in London", click here. 

On a perfect weekend in London, what are your top 5 things to do? 

London Restaurant Reviews - Kimchee

Set in an area informally known in London as "Little Seoul", Kimchee is one of the largest and most stylish Korean restaurants around Holborn and Centre Point. I have always been a great fan of Korean food, and having spent a week in South Korea recently my appreciation of and interest in the gutsy flavours of this cuisine have been revived.

I have been wanting to try Kimchee on High Holborn since it opened and a couple of weeks ago, having cravings for Korean Yuk Hwae (Korean beef tartare) and Bulgogi (barbecued beef), that is where I headed.

The restaurant is large, roomy and tastefully designed. It has long, dark wooden tables and partitions giving it a casually elegant feel. The decor reminds me of Busaba Eat Thai or a relaxed version of Hakkasan. Watching the chefs in the busy open plan kitchen and barbecue area is entertaining.

The menu is extensive and covers most categories that are to be expected in any respectable Korean restaurant. Accompanying me was Reiko Hashimoto, Japanese cookery teacher and author of HASHI - A Japanese Cookery Course.

We started with a selection of small dishes to share and a few choices from the charcoal barbecue. The "Yuk Hwae" @ £4.90, a classic Korean dish similar to beef tartare but made with thinly sliced raw beef, sliced pear and egg yolk was excellent, as was the "Crab Tuigim" @ £5.40 - soft shell crab fried in breadcrumbs served with a plum dipping sauce.

"Kkakdugi" @ £2.50 is a dish of pickled radish kimchee intensely flavoured with chilli and garlic. It was a great accompaniment to the barbecued meats we ordered. 

A favourite of mine (and a dish I make at home frequently) "Tofu Kimchee" @ £5.40 is a simple but satisfying dish of sliced boiled tofu topped with stir fried pork and kimchee.

The "Seafood Dolsot Bibimbap" @ £8.40 was a delicious dish of Korean rice cooked in an earthenware pot with vegetables and a medley of seafood including scallop, calamari, squid and prawns cooked in an earthenware pot. 

From the charcoal barbecue Reiko and I shared three "Chargrilled Scallops" @ £3.85 each. The scallops tasted deliciously fresh and sweet but at £3.85 each, we both felt that they were not as large as they could have been.

We also ordered "Bulgogi" @ £7.90 - a must on any Korean meal this is thinly sliced beef marinated in a deliciously fruity sauce with onions and garlic, and also "Lemon Sole Gui" @ £7.40 - lemon sole fillets barbecued and served with grated radish.

The best dish from the charcoal grill in my opinion was however the "Beef Rib Eye" @ £8.40 - juicy pieces of beef marinated in garlic and sesame oil and served with crisp lettuce leaves. To accompany the beef we also had barbecued asparagus @ £2.90 per skewer.

The house wine was Sicilian. Priced at a very reasonable £18, "Catarratto Inzolia 2010" was deliciously refreshing but with enough fruity character to withstand the strongly flavoured dishes it accompanied.

To round off the meal, Reiko and I shared "Golden Sweet Chestnut" and "Black Sesame" ice creams @ £3.40 per scoop. 

Cost: £25 to £30 per person excluding drinks.

Likes: cool decor, central location, excellent value and quality house wine. The barbecued rib eye steak in lettuce leaves was particularly good.

Dislikes: None.

Verdict: Good value Korean fare in the heart of central London in a modern, trendy location. Recommended.

Last Tuesdays at RIBA - Dining at The Royal Institute of British Architects

The RIBA headquarters on 66 Portland Place is unsurprisingly one of the most iconic buildings in London. Home to the Royal Institute of British Architects, it was conceived by the architect George Grey Wornum (1888 - 1957) whose design was judged the best of 3600 entries in a competition for the new RIBA headquarters. Completed in 1934, it is one of the most elegant expressions of Art Deco architecture in the City.

Unknown to many, the RIBA houses a stunning restaurant, bar and cafe which can be accessed by members and non-members alike. There are also architectural events, talks, and exhibitions as well as an extensive bookshop and library open to the public.

I was recently invited to take part in a guided tour of RIBA's latest exhibition "A Place to Call Home" which is running until the 28th April. This fascinating exhibition charts the story of the design of everyday homes in the UK. It explores the British obsession with homes and the experiments that have shaped how and where we live.

The invite coincided with "Last Tuesday" at RIBA when the Institute opens its doors after hours for everyone to enjoy. There is a wide range of special activities and events on the last Tuesday of each month at RIBA, including free guided tours, exhibitions, talks and film screenings. It is also a great opportunity for those interested in visiting RIBA's stunning Art Deco building, or simply meeting friends for a drink in the bar, or enjoying a bite to eat in the restaurant. Admission is free (some special events are charged). Visit architecture.com/programmes for full information.

After the exhibition we headed to the bar for a glass of wine and to check the available menus. There is a special menu designed for "RIBA Last Tuesday" with a selection of small plates (tapas style) which in my opinion is well priced at £3.50 per dish or 3 plates for £10. A large glass of wine (250ml) is priced at £7 and if two are purchased, the remaining bottle is given free. This works out at £14 for a bottle of wine! The restaurant also has a more substantial a la carte menu with a choice of four starters (from £5.50 to £6.50), four mains at around £18 each and four desserts priced at £5.

From the RIBA Last Tuesday menu we ordered 3 small plates including "Rillette of duck, spiced plums, and toasted croutes", "Smoked haddock and chive omelette with Wookey Hole cheddar" and "Beer battered Cornish squid with tartare sauce". These were beautifully accompanied by a couple of glasses of South African Chenin Blanc from Stellenbosch (War Horse).

The a la carte menu looked too tempting to be left untouched so we made our way to RIBA's beautiful Art Deco restaurant. The restaurant is imposing, with floor to ceiling windows overlooking a gorgeous open air terrace. We started with "Seared scallops" @ £6.50 served with leeks, candied hazelnuts and black olive powder. The scallops were deliciously tender, and I enjoyed the unusual addition of candied hazelnut and olives.

The "Middle white pork belly" @ £5.75 served with black pudding and quince was also very good and had perfect crackling.

For mains, we went for "Pan-roasted Cornish pollack fillet" @ £17.95 which was accompanied by a crayfish and tarragon lasagne, salsify crisps and crayfish reduction.

The "Braised Yorkshire venison" @ £18.95 was however the better of the two mains. It was served with sauteed girolles, truffled mash and redcurrants. This was a fabulous dish.

We also had a selection of three British cheeses @ £7.50 which included Wookey Hole cheddar, Oxford Blue and Sussex camembert. They were beautifully presented and served with grapes, dried apricots, walnuts, biscuits and jam.

To finish off we shared a dessert of "Warm orange and polenta cake, passion fruit sorbet and candied orange" @ £5.50 which was also delicious.

I was surprised to find such appealing food at affordable prices in one of the most stunning locations in London. I will make sure to return and make the most of RIBA's open air terrace this coming spring and summer, to further sample their affordable wine list and food offerings. A hidden gem, recommended!

Please note - the restaurant is opened at lunch time throughout the week and on Tuesday evenings only.

The London Foodie Supper Club - Japanese Home Cooking - Reviewed by The Evening Standard

Washoku or Japanese Cooking is one of my greatest passions in life. I was fortunate enough to grow up in a Japanese home in the South American city of Sao Paulo, and have, since moving to London 20 years ago, pursued my interest to learn more about this cuisine.

Cod & Seafood Nabe with Soya Milk and White Miso Broth - Image by Catriona Mills

Since leaving investment banking in 2011, I moved to Tokyo for a couple of months to do Japanese food research and recipe writing. I also took private Japanese cookery classes during the day and worked at a Japanese Izakaya (casual Japanese restaurant) at night (more about these experiences here). I returned to London in early 2012 to start the Grand Diplome at Le Cordon Bleu and the Japanese Home Cooking Supper Club which I now run from my home in Islington.

Image by Catriona Mills

The supper club has recently been reviewed by The Evening Standard, you can read the full review here.

If you are interested in learning more about Japanese cuisine, beyond sushi and sashimi, and would like to attend one of the Japanese Home Cooking Supper Club events I run, take a look at The London Foodie Supper Club page for forthcoming dates or contact me on luizharaAThotmailDOTcom using the subject line JAPANESE SUPPER CLUB.

Image by Catriona Mills