The few hours I spent at his beautiful home in Notting Hill were an introduction to a fascinating world I admit knowing little about. I felt humbled by the experience but at the same time, very eager to learn more.
Pei has a gracious and calm serenity about him and is also confident and knowledgeable in his area of expertise. Pei explained many interesting facts and anecdotes about his expeditions to China to find the best possible teas, the effects of oxidation on the tea leaves, and also about the ten artisan teas he was about to brew.
The plant from which tea is made is called “Camellia sinensis”, a native of mainland Southern China and Southeast Asia. Fresh leaves contain about 4% caffeine, but luckily (and unlike coffee), the leaves also contain another chemical called “theophylline” which helps us to appreciate the benefits of caffeine by relaxing the muscles while counterbalancing its unpleasant side effects.
So if all Chinese teas come from one single plant, why are there so many different types of tea? From green to white, yellow, oolong and black teas, the difference between them is solely dependent on the levels of oxidation of the leaves. Green teas are un-oxidised, while white teas are very slightly oxidised, with black teas being fully oxidised.
Pei also explained that the quality of the water used will play a key factor in the taste, appearance and aroma of tea – hard water (high levels of calcium), acidic or alkaline waters (PH below/above 7.0) and water containing excessive amounts of chlorine will alter the natural properties of the brewed tea. Pei strongly recommends filtered or pure bottled water.
Another interesting fact was the importance of water temperature in brewing – the higher the water temperature, the more bitter and astringent the tea taste becomes because amino acids, the flavour element dissolves at 60 ˚C (140 ˚F). Tannin, causing astringency, dissolves at 80 ˚C (176 ˚F).
The more delicate types of tea, the un-oxidised and very lightly oxidised green, white and yellow teas, are brewed at low temperatures in porcelain tea pots. The more heavily oxidised teas, black and red varieties, are normally brewed at higher temperatures and served from clay pots which help to retain the heat.
All these delightful snippets of “tea facts” were given to us between tastings of the ten artisan teas that Pei served us which showcased the spectrum of un-oxidised to fully oxidised teas on offer. All teas can be purchased from Pei’s website, and are priced around £4.50 to £5.50 for 30-40gr.
Of note was the very lightly oxidised “Silver Needle”, the most expensive white tea variety and also the most prized as only top buds are used to produce the tea. It tasted delicate and slightly sweet.
The “Silk Oolong” was also a big hit for me – a partially oxidised tea, it had a slightly darker colour and tasted deliciously creamy like buttered popcorn and caramel.
We tried the “Big Snow Mountain Pu Erh 2010 vintage” tea, harvested from 2,000 year old tea trees, this fermented, post-oxidised tea was outstanding. Like a fine Burgundy, Pu Erh tea is aged in a controlled environment for months or even years which helps it to darken in colour and as it slowly matures, it acquires a more intense flavour.
The fully oxidised black tea “Lychee Black” was also sensational – I never thought that a natural tea plant could taste so fruity and sweet. It had a heady scent of tropical fruits and a delicate vanilla hint to the flavour.
Pei suggests this tea to be drunk with dessert, and indeed the “Lychee Black” was the perfect accompaniment to the delightful yuzu macaroons and green tea madeleines that Pei baked for our tasting on that same morning.
I was truly impressed by his macaroons, they were perfect – and the use of “yuzu”, an expensive and very hard to find Japanese lime variety, showed a great sophistication of palate and cooking skills. Pei also provides tea cookery classes at £60 for which I am very tempted to enrol.
The green tea madeleines were also fantastic – wonderfully light and fluffy, they had a delicious hint of vanilla and a lovely nuttiness from the topping of black sesame seeds.
Pei’s tea appreciation class is priced at £35, and lasts for about 3 hours. He also runs a similar class at Bea’s of Bloomsbury on selected Wednesday evenings, and other workshops like “Tea and Meditation” at Holland Park and at Teanamu.
Pei will be hosting a Summer Open House at Teanamu on 3rd July from 12-4pm, when you can experience a free demonstration of traditional tea brewing and sample some of this Spring's fresh green and Pu Erh teas.
After many pots of delicious teas, quite a few macaroons, and one of the most interesting mornings I have had for a very long time, I reluctantly had to leave for another appointment. I left feeling completely blissful having partaken in Pei’s delightful master class.
Teanamu @ The Coach House, 14a St Luke’s Road, London, W11 1DP.
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