London Restaurant Reviews - The Mirror Room

Words & Photography by Felicity Spector and Luiz Hara

Name: The Mirror Room and Scarfes Bar

Where: Rosewood Hotel, 252 High Holborn, London WC1V 7EN

http://www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/london/dining/Mirror-Room

Cost: Small plates priced from £9 to £16, main courses from £13 to £21, while some dishes to share ranged from £19 to £75 for a rib of beef.

About: The Mirror Room is billed as the highlight of the newly refurbished Rosewood Hotel, the reincarnation of the 5-star Chancery Hotel around the corner from Holborn station. Its American owners have spent an astonishing £85 million on the refit, including a suite in its own wing, so vast that it has its own postcode. Plus, we were told, a cool £500,000 on the dining room silverware alone. Be sure to take care with the glasses in the bar - they cost €150 each!

Designed by New-York based Tony Chi, the Mirror Room itself is a long, astoundingly dramatic space, with a highly intricate mirrored ceiling, a huge fire blazing at the end, and the biggest vase of flowers I’ve ever seen in the centre, from the high-end florists McQueens. Décor is Chinese influenced, with plenty of glossy black lacquer and some very grand sofas and chairs.

The man behind Mirror Room’s kitchen is Bjorn Van Der Horst of the late Eastside Inn who received rave reviews for his Clerkenwell restaurant before it shut.

Prior to dinner, we had a couple of cocktails in the Scarfes Bar, a cosier and more intimate room with beautifully judged lighting, a blazing fire, antique books, and very comfortable chairs.

Illustrations come courtesy of the caricaturist Gerald Scarfe. Here, the comprehensive drinks menus - including more than 200 single malts, come hidden inside antique looking leather book jackets, and there’s live music every night. The staff were fantastic, very knowledgeable and friendly: nothing seemed too much trouble.

The more casual Holborn Dining Rooms is set to open shortly in the hotel, which will be another, perhaps more affordable dining option at the Rosewood Hotel.

From the book lined comfort of the Scarfes Bar, we were led into a stunning corridor, shimmering in a sort of bronze light, then through to the vast expanse of the Mirror Room. “It’s the first place I saw which made me simply say - wow”, said our waitress: and there certainly has been no expense spared on this lavish and luxury space.

What we ate: The menu is divided into a range of ‘small plates’ from which you could easily construct a meal: five between two people, we were told, might be a good selection. Of the large plates, there were a lot of sandwiches, mixed with some more conventional main course dishes and three larger ‘sharing plates’.

The excellent sourdough bread came with a flavoured butter, which changes daily - a clever idea: on the day we went, it was golden raisin, walnut and thyme, which lent a pleasant sweetness and crunch.

I started with a pheasant and chestnut soup (£9), which was exquisitely made, with a rich flavour from the pheasant stock, and plenty of trompette de la mort mushrooms, along with pieces of sliced chestnut to add texture to the creamy veloute style broth.

We also tried the foie gras with almond and coffee (£14): rich, with just a hint of bitterness from the coffee and an almond foam which balanced the unctuous liver very well indeed.

A rose veal tartare (£16) was hand chopped yet remarkably smooth, simply seasoned with just a hint of caper and parmesan - an excellent effort.

For mains we had another of the small plates - gnocchi with morels - wheat rather than potato based dumplings (£11), which came with an intense mushroom sauce and plenty of morels.

The ‘crispy Dover sole, chips and truffle mayonnaise’ (£19) was also a success: two substantial fillets of perfectly cooked fish in a tempura batter, crisp, fluffy chips in a small Jenga type tower alongside a pot of very good truffle mayonnaise. I also ordered an off-menu selection of steamed vegetables, a prettily arranged selection served al dente.

Desserts were a particular highlight: the menu offered a few options including the tempting sounding “patisserie from the counter” (£8).

We were invited to view the selection with our obliging waiter, who talked us through the various options, including a cheesecake, various biscuits and madeleines, and a selection of French pastries.

I chose a blackberry frangipane tart, a pleasingly generous slice cut from a whole tart, with some raspberry coulis on the side. It was excellently made: crisp, thin pastry, moist frangipane with the tartness of the berries cutting through the almond sweetness.

We also tried a dessert from the main menu - ‘chocolate, candied chestnut, Lagavulin cream and vanilla meringue’, which came in a glass, an indulgent twist on a Mont Blanc and very alcoholic.

What we drank: There was a good range of cocktails created by the in-house barmen in the Scarfes Bar - served with special daily changing ice-cube shape (which I’ve never heard of before) in those expensively heavy and gorgeous Ralph Lauren glasses.

We had a glass of Hats Off, a delicious concoction of tequila, Aperol, lemon and grapefruit juices that was refreshing and with the right amount of bitterness from the Aperol (£12). We also tried The Humidor made from Chivas 18-year old whisky, dry white Port and Absynthe among other ingredients (£12). This was a strong and very well-made cocktail and my favourite of the evening.

In the restaurant, the vast wine list was expertly navigated by our sommelier who suggested a glass of Pinot Noir to go with the foie gras and veal tartare starters. He had specially opened a bottle of Domaine Pierre Danoy, normally not available by the glass, but priced at £60 a bottle.

With the Dover sole main came a glass of 2009 Lucien Le Moin white Burgundy at £18, fresh and citrusy with hints of butter and spice, chosen to match the beer batter on the fish.

Water came served in stainless steel cups lined with copper, a very grand touch.

Likes: The service was wonderful, with extremely friendly and expert staff, from the Polish waitress in Scarfes Bar who exuded enthusiasm - to our sommelier and waiter, they all went out of their way to make us feel comfortable. The desserts were the highlight for me, while my companion had high praise for the tartare and foie gras, where the quality of the ingredients, and the care taken with their preparation, were evident.

Dislikes: We were there on a quiet midweek night, and although there were a few occupied tables around us, with the restaurant being so spacious, it felt a little lacking in atmosphere.

Verdict: If it’s a grand experience you’re after - this is definitely the place. It has that ‘wow’ interior the like of which you’ll rarely find in London as well as excellent cocktails, food and desserts. The Scarfes Bar was very relaxing and would make an excellent place to meet - especially with the live music. Recommended.

The Courvoisier Institute of Grand Cocktails, London, 13-14 July 2012

I have enjoyed Courvoisier Brandy as a base for cocktails for many years, but more recently their Courvoisier Punch - a delicious concoction of Courvoisier, lemonade and Angustura bitters that is a great option for those looking for a summer alternative to Pimms.

For 2 nights only, 13th and 14th July 2012, Courvoisier has taken over Victoria House in Bloomsbury Square to host the Courvoisier Institute of Grand Cocktails, and provide an immersive and theatrical experience through a world of classic cocktails.

For only £10, for a 1 hour time slot from 6.30 to 10.30pm, you can enjoy a refreshing Courvoisier Punch in the building’s produce stores, make a toast with a Courvoisier Champagne Cocktail in a grand but derelict Rococo ballroom and sip a classic Courvoisier Sazerac in a New Orleans apothecary. Each of these rooms is brought to life by actors in period costumes who interact with guests.

I was lucky enough to have a sneaky preview of this event, and all in all, I found it a very interesting experience and fantastic value, but best of all a good introduction to other Courvoisier-based cocktails I was unaware of.

When: Friday 13 July, one hour sessions begin every 20 mins
from 6:30 – 10:30pm (SOLD OUT)
Saturday 14 July, one hour sessions begin every 20 mins
from 5:30 – 10:30pm

Where: The Heritage Rooms, Victoria House
Bloomsbury Square entrance
London, WC1B 4DA

Tickets: Tickets available from http://courvoisierinstitute.eventbrite.co.uk, priced £10

London Restaurant Reviews - Kimchee

Set in an area informally known in London as "Little Seoul", Kimchee is one of the largest and most stylish Korean restaurants around Holborn and Centre Point. I have always been a great fan of Korean food, and having spent a week in South Korea recently my appreciation of and interest in the gutsy flavours of this cuisine have been revived.

I have been wanting to try Kimchee on High Holborn since it opened and a couple of weeks ago, having cravings for Korean Yuk Hwae (Korean beef tartare) and Bulgogi (barbecued beef), that is where I headed.

The restaurant is large, roomy and tastefully designed. It has long, dark wooden tables and partitions giving it a casually elegant feel. The decor reminds me of Busaba Eat Thai or a relaxed version of Hakkasan. Watching the chefs in the busy open plan kitchen and barbecue area is entertaining.

The menu is extensive and covers most categories that are to be expected in any respectable Korean restaurant.

We started with a selection of small dishes to share and a few choices from the charcoal barbecue. The "Yuk Hwae" @ £4.90, a classic Korean dish similar to beef tartare but made with thinly sliced raw beef, sliced pear and egg yolk was excellent, as was the "Crab Tuigim" @ £5.40 - soft shell crab fried in breadcrumbs served with a plum dipping sauce.

"Kkakdugi" @ £2.50 is a dish of pickled radish kimchee intensely flavoured with chilli and garlic. It was a great accompaniment to the barbecued meats we ordered. 

A favourite of mine (and a dish I make at home frequently) "Tofu Kimchee" @ £5.40 is a simple but satisfying dish of sliced boiled tofu topped with stir fried pork and kimchee.

The "Seafood Dolsot Bibimbap" @ £8.40 was a delicious dish of Korean rice cooked in an earthenware pot with vegetables and a medley of seafood including scallop, calamari, squid and prawns cooked in an earthenware pot. 

From the charcoal barbecue Dr G and I shared three "Chargrilled Scallops" @ £3.85 each. The scallops tasted deliciously fresh and sweet but at £3.85 each, we both felt that they were not as large as they could have been.

We also ordered "Bulgogi" @ £7.90 - a must on any Korean meal this is thinly sliced beef marinated in a deliciously fruity sauce with onions and garlic, and also "Lemon Sole Gui" @ £7.40 - lemon sole fillets barbecued and served with grated radish.

The best dish from the charcoal grill in my opinion was however the "Beef Rib Eye" @ £8.40 - juicy pieces of beef marinated in garlic and sesame oil and served with crisp lettuce leaves. To accompany the beef we also had barbecued asparagus @ £2.90 per skewer.

The house wine was Sicilian. Priced at a very reasonable £18, "Catarratto Inzolia 2010" was deliciously refreshing but with enough fruity character to withstand the strongly flavoured dishes it accompanied.

To round off the meal, Dr G and I shared "Golden Sweet Chestnut" and "Black Sesame" ice creams @ £3.40 per scoop. 

Cost: £25 to £30 per person excluding drinks.

Likes: cool decor, central location, excellent value and quality house wine. The barbecued rib eye steak in lettuce leaves was particularly good.

Dislikes: None.

Verdict: Good value Korean fare in the heart of central London in a modern, trendy location. Recommended.

London Supper Club Review - Catalan Cooking

I have been following Rachel McCormack's progress with her Catalan Cooking School with great interest from its very beginning, and was pleased to hear that she had decided to start a series of supper club nights at various venues. I was lucky to have been invited along to one of these events at Bea's of Bloomsbury in Holborn in association with Codorníu.

Location

Rachel will be hosting these evenings at various locations across London, including Bea's of Bloomsbury in Holborn's Theobald Road. Her next event will be as part of our London Cooking Club series at my home in Islington on 26th February 2011, where she will be doing a cookery demonstration of several of her Catalan dishes.

Food

To start the evening, we had a selection of Tapas dishes, including olives, Iberico ham and cheese, potato tortilla among other items, served with a delicious chunky bread. A good start to the evening as these tasted authentic and of high quality.

To follow, we had an intensely flavoured "Sopa de Carn d'Olla" - a lovely chicken broth served with fresh parsley.

Rachel served a selection of main courses buffet-style. In my opinion, the stand-out dishes were the "Calamar farcit de Alberginia" (squid stuffed with aubergine), and the delicious "Conill amb Ceba" (rabbit cooked with onion).

Also very good were the "Escalivada" (roast peppers, aubergines and onions), and "Arròs al forn amb bolets" (rice cooked in the oven with wild mushrooms).

I would not claim to be an expert on Catalan cooking, but the dishes were flavoursome and hearty, and I enjoyed them a great deal. This was an introduction to a cuisine I look forward to learning more about from Rachel.

For dessert, we had "Crema Catalana" (Catalan cream) which was a delicious vanilla custard with a burnt sugar crust, followed by Bunyols del Emporda" (Catalan doughnuts) similar to Spanish Churros, and "Sopa d'avelianes amb el seu Cruixent" (hazelnut soup with crocanti and ice-cream) which was rich and nutty. The best hazelnuts in the world are said to come from Tarragona, the southern province of Catalunya.

Drinks

One of the interesting areas we learned about at the WSET Advanced Certificate Course was the various methods of production of sparkling wine. For example, the traditional method perfected in Champagne is also used by some other good quality sparkling wines in France (the Crémants), and also by law in Spain for the production of Cava.

Other well known sparkling wines such as Prosecco and Asti Spumante, while often delicious, are produced by a completely different method and are not a substitute for Champagne or Cava as they present other flavour characteristics. Traditionally, Cava is made from three indigenous Catalunyan grape varieties - Parrellada, Xarel-lo and Macabeo. More recently, Champagne grape varieties are being incorporated into the blend such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for extra complexity and elegance.

All the wines for this supper club were provided by Codorníu. I was surprised to learn that Codorníu has been making wine since 1551, and for Rachel's supper club evening, we were offered four sparkling wines from its range.

On arrival, we were served a glass of "Anna de Codorníu Brut" @ £9.99. This was a delicate and fruity wine and the first in Spain to have Chardonnnay as a varietal in its blend. This was a good accompaniment to our selection of tapas.

The "Codorníu Selección Raventós Brut" @ £9.99 was served next with the "Sopa de Carn d'Olla". Coming from selected vineyards, this wine had slightly more intense fruit aromas than the first offering, with hints of citrus and stone fruit.

For our main courses, we had the "Codorníu Reina Maria Cristina Blanc de Noirs 2008" @ £17.99. Just released in 2011, this is Spain's first ever Blanc de Noirs (a white sparkling wine made from black grapes). By far the star of the evening, this wine had unmistakeable Pinot Noir characteristics including red fruit with excellent structure and length, as well as some toasty notes akin to Champagne.

"Codorníu Pinot Noir Rosé" @ £10.99 was served with desserts. Also made entirely from Pinot Noir, this wine had an attractive pale pink colour and good fruit intensity.

People

Originally from Scotland, Rachel McCormack spent most of her 20s living in Spain, mostly Barcelona. She runs fortnightly Catalan Cooking classes at Bea's of Bloomsbury on Theobald's Road.

For the supper club, Rachel works with Franz Schinagl the former executive chef of Asia de Cuba who also runs his own Austrian supper club at Bea's.

Other Stuff:

In addition to her participation in our forthcoming London Cooking Club in Islington on the 26th February 2011, Rachel's next Supper Club Evening will be on the 20th March 2011. Her next Catalan Cooking Classes will be on the 8th and 22nd March 2011. For more information on her classes, visit the Catalan Cooking blog here.

Cost: The London Foodie was a guest of Catalan Cooking and Codorníu. Prices for Rachel's supper clubs vary between £30 and £35 depending on the menu offered.

Likes: introduction to an exciting regional Spanish cuisine which is novel to London, flavoursome and hearty dishes, great wine matches.

Dislikes: in my opinion, the elongated café setting made the evening feel more like a pop-up restaurant than a homely, more intimate supper club.

Verdict: Homely and very delicious Catalunyan cooking by Rachel, expertly partnered with a range of Cavas by Codorníu. The evening was a great introduction to a cuisine I would like to learn more about, and the wines (especially the Blanc de Noirs) opened my eyes to a whole new range of exciting Cavas to be enjoyed. Highly recommended.