Kitchen Influentials Lunch at Hix Oyster & Chop House

Words and Photography by Su-Lin Ong

The London Restaurant Festival 2012 (1-15 October) is replete with creative treats for seasoned omnivores.  This year's celebration featured the new Kitchen Influentials series.  These one-off Sunday lunches, especially for American Express card members, teamed up pairs of top chefs for double fun and surprises.

It was off to the lunch hosted by Mark Hix and Harvey Ayeliffe at Hix Oyster & Chop House in Smithfield that I went.

Harvey has worked with Mark for some 15 years, and more recently, together they opened Alfred's the Dunhill members' club in Mayfair.  So with these impeccably tailored creds, the day's lunch was full of dapper promise; no over-styling, no conceits.

Mark Hix's food is always about beautifully seasonal produce that is painstakingly sourced from choice suppliers.  Despite the restaurant being a mere toss of a pork scratching from Smithfield Market, Hix chooses to source his meat with a lot more fuss and attention.  There are Cornish clues around the place.

The dining room we sit in seems like the kind of canteen which butchers might like to feast in.  Shiny utility finishes, a solid, well-used bar and proper bright lights keep you gazing around the space, meeting the eye of fellow diners doing the same.  It seemed more like a lively weekday, with plenty of social bustling between tables - which is always allowed on these special occasions.  This is what Sunday lunch in the city should be like.  

All eyes eventually get darting to the wall art.  Hix is known for being a patron of contemporary art, with an astute eye for snaffling up pieces to adorn his restaurants.  He is a lucky, lucky man to have such available wall space with which to delight his diners.  It all fits without distracting from the purposeful look of the restaurant.  Paper table covers are always a good sign.  They clearly encourage a kind of informality: 'Don't mind it if you get messy'.  And we didn't.

So when lunch was served by our waiter with the perfect handlebar moustache, we knew it would end up being the type of Sunday session with a bit of boisterous banter flung round the table.  

We hushed for the first course of steamed Lyme Bay shellfish.  It was lightly prepared so that the individual flavour of each offering could be clearly tasted.  The single oyster which crowned the dish was quite simply enough, and made me think how any typical platter of six or 12 oysters so dulls your palate for anything else.  It started us musing about shoreline foraging and wanting to head for the seaside.  A zingy Gavi di Gavi complemented this dish, and had us nibbling again on the teasing ribbons of fried parsnip that had welcomed us to the table; not leaving those.

It was back to hedgerow and field for the next two courses.  Grouse was finely slivered into a salad, yet its dark gamey flavours still beat through.  It seemed a little on the dry side for those of us once-a-year grouse eaters, who only know how to slather on the gravy and bread sauce.  Never mind, subtle sharpness came from elderberries that we naughtily crushed into red stains on the plate.  

Next came the rib of veal, served in hunks that were sliced in a way that only someone truly skilled with a single curved swipe of a knife can manage.  This magnificent, honest meat was perfectly melting.  

By this point, a magnum had been placed on the table.  It had to be this magnum, instructed our host as he explained his choice to me.  Why such a name as Tonnix?  Well, Tonnix - a luscious Douro - was dreamed up by Hix and restaurateur friend Mitch Tonks.  The simple label was another clue that this was the host’s proud cellar choice.  It was not just any meandering of the pen; this was a Tracey Emin doodle.

Back on the foraging trail, we marvelled at the mountain of Autumn blackberries on the light-as-air apple pudding, and we thrilled like kids at the giant one hidden inside like a sixpence.  These were not uniform black blackberries on steroids, but wild looking, wind-beaten bounty, tinged with dark juicy pinks. Then arrived the cider brandy custard which was non-stop flowing.  We all insisted it needed continuous pouring for the sake of achieving a decent photo.  I am hoping the recipe will be in Mark Hix's new Baking book.

The sweet Jurançon we sipped alongside had notes of dessert apple too.

As for our host, Mark Hix, he was charming.  Comfortable with his guests whom he treated alike as old friends, he had plenty of time to sit and talk away. Wouldn't mind loitering on a street corner with him for a breath of fresh air, we thought.  I am always one to quiz people about the next treat in store, so I asked him to spill the beans.  I'm hopeless at keeping secrets - he doesn't know that, of course.

So as not to give too much away, all I can say is that the next Hix establishment is likely to be somewhere in West London.  W10?  W11?  Guessing from his keen eye for vintage detailing, it is likely to be an unloved space which he will gloss up again; a shell of a building he can fill with artwork and more, fine, discreet dining.  Well, I'll ask him again until he tells me.

What an afternoon.  I would have liked to stretch it to cocktail hour, to test the list of gentlemanly offerings.  Vintage cocktail trappings on the bar are always a sign that bartenders want to flex their skills.  But that makes for another visit, for sure.

It's time to leave.  The light sculpture in hot white neon by Tim Noble & Sue Webster that hangs on the back wall says it all about the ambience of this place.  
Still can't read it?
Put a mirror against this photo, and you'll get the message loud and clear.  
You'll agree.

The menu & wines
Steamed Lyme Bay shellfish with seashore vegetables

Wolsingham Estate grouse salad with elderberries
Slow roast Cumbrian rib of veal with Jerusalem artichokes, ceps and curly kale
Steamed blackberry and apple pudding with cider brandy custard

Gavi di Gavi Bric Sassi, Piedmont 2011 - Vibrant honeyed fruit-burst flavours.
Tonnix 2010 in magnum - This full-bodied, dark fruit wine is produced by Quinta de la Rosa at Pinhão in the Douro Valley. 
Domaine Cauhapé Symphonie de Novembre, Jurançon 2009 - Beautifully rewarding, both dry and sweet. Exotically perfumed.

Su-Lin Ong attended on behalf of The London Foodie and dined as a guest of American Express, Mark Hix, Harvey Ayeliffe and MHPC, 7 October 2012.
www.londonrestaurantfestival.com/amex

Hix Oyster & Chop House 
36-37 Greenhill Rents, Cowcross Street, London, EC1M 6BN 
Tel: 020 7017 1930
www.hixoysterandchophouse.co.uk

Words and Photography by Su-Lin Ong
Su-Lin Ong eats and drinks tirelessly in adventurous corners around town.  A great night out is one filled with the fun of guests making crazy conversation in any place with a vibrant, individual ambience. By day, Su-Lin is an entertainment, food and drink expert. Her work has spanned feature writing for international lifestyle magazines, through to music business and parliamentary consultancy.  She is also a trained cook. One of her first encounters with Luiz Hara, The London Foodie, was at a gourmet cooking dinner when he relegated her to 'making the salad'. Contact Su-Lin via The London Foodie or sulinong@slo-london.co.uk   Twitter: @sloLondon

London Restaurant Reviews - Morgan M Barbican

**THIS RESTAURANT HAS CLOSED DOWN**

Since starting my training at Cordon Bleu I am beginning to gain some understanding of the skill, technique and artistry on discreet display in our top French restaurants.  Morgan M is the first French restaurant I have visited since I started the Grand Diplome, and I looked at it with newly informed eyes.  

Morgan Meunier has an impressive CV, which included 7 years training in a variety of 3 Michelin-starred restaurants in France.  He won his first Michelin star in the UK in 1999, at Monsieur Max in Twickenham, and later worked at The Admiralty in the Strand. 

Having run a successful restaurant (also called Morgan M, an old favourite of mine) in Islington since 2003, Morgan Meunier opened his new restaurant on Long Lane near the Barbican and opposite Smithfield's Meat Market in November 2011. The new two storey restaurant offers his affordable haute cuisine but with dishes that, while meticulously crafted, are modern and simple. 

The ground floor is an accessible and informal bistro, offering an haute cuisine small plates menu. The downstairs menu is more relaxed, with a selection of smaller versions of the classic dishes served upstairs, including the raviolo of snails in Chablis, garlic froth and red wine jus and Ballotine of Foie Gras with fig caviar.

I was impressed to see that unlike most restaurants which include vegetarian dishes almost as an afterthought, Morgan M has an entire 6 -course tasting menu specifically for vegetarians, 'From the Garden' @£46. On the occasion of our visit, Dr G and I went for the 6-course tasting menu: ‘The Winter Menu’ (£50 per person), with matching wines by the glass @£30 per person.

For most courses, there were two options, and therefore between the two of us, we were able to cover the whole Winter Menu.

We started with Cream of Mojette Beans, with lemon confit and pesto, served with
Le Lesc Colombard 2010, Ugni Blanc, Vin du Gers - this was a lovely, delicate starter, and set us up nicely for the dishes to follow.

Game Terrine with Foie Gras followed, served with a French bean salad, apple chutney and toasted Poilane bread, partnered with an Oloroso sherry (Don Jose Reserves Especiales). This was a magnificent terrine, studded with a fillet of rare venison.

In my opinion, the best dish of the night was the Crayfish and Lobster Cannelloni, with tarragon, Jerusalem artichoke soubise and a shellfish capuccino. It was served with a glass of Chateau Clement-Termes Gaillac Sec, 2010, from Southwest France.  If by the end of my year at Cordon Bleu, I can create such a dish, I will be a happy man. The pasta was light, the filling delectable and perfectly seasoned, and the shellfish foam was stunning.  An absolute winner!

Next, we had the Fillet of Wild Sea Bass, served with Torroxal Albarino 2010, Rias Baixas.  Perfectly pan-fried, the sea bass was served on a bed of carrot and ginger risotto, with a lemon and saffron broth. This was an unusual combination of flavours, but delightful nonetheless. It was served with one of my favourite white wines, a lovely Albarino from Rias Baixas. 

For the main course, we had Pot Roasted Fillet of Iken Valley Venison, with Farci of hare, quince puree and sauce Grand Veneur.  The venison was splendid, and the sauce Grand Veneur was a revelation. A classic sauce for large game (it translates as 'huntsman's sauce'), it is based on a sauce poivrade, in which some game trimmings and strained marinade is added to the bouillon, and then finished with blood and redcurrant jelly. Very seasonal, this was a warming but sophisticated winter dish, served with a pleasingly stalky Bourgueil Peu Muleau 1996, Domain de la Chevalerie, from the central Loire region.

The other main course was Oven-roasted Suffolk Pheasant, the leg braised with raisins, glazed pear, served with liver croutons and bread sauce.  Beautifully presented, I really enjoyed the gamey flavours of the bird, with the sweetness of the poached pear and contrasting savoury jus.  A great combination.   

As a palate cleanser, we were served a perfect Light Vanilla Rice Pudding with orange tuile.  Tuiles are a serious technical challenge (as I know from my patisserie classes!), and these were perfectly executed, filled with an exquisitely light rice pudding.

For dessert, we had the Passion Fruit Soufflé and Sorbet with Crème Anglaise, served with Moscata d'Asti, 2010, Bera Canelli, and Dark Chocolate Moelleux and Milk Sorbet, served with a glass of Maury, 2007, Domain Mas Amiel.  Excellent dishes to round off a memorable meal.

Cost: Winter Menu priced at £50 per person (6 courses) plus 6 matching wines at £30 per person.

Likes: Outstanding French cooking, good value for money for tasting menus and pre/post theatre options at £21.50 and £25.50 for 2 or 3 courses respectively.  Well thought out matching wine flights.

Dislikes: None.

Verdict: At £50 per person for this menu, I struggle to think of many restaurants in London that can offer such great quality and cooking skill at so reasonable a price. Highly recommended.

London's Best Independent Pubs - Fox and Anchor

Whenever I feel like having well made, traditional British food with a contemporary twist I head down to Charterhouse Square. Tucked away from the excitement of Charterhouse Street and Smithfields Market, the Fox and Anchor has, for years, been my local gastro pub of choice.

Despite its discreet location, the pub is always popular with regulars ranging from the nearby meat traders and City professionals, to students and tourists. There is a fine suite of six luxury hotel rooms above the pub. I have not stayed there myself but they look elegant from their website pictures and at £95 for a special "Lazy Weekend" rate, I feel it is also good value considering the central location (click here for details).

On a busy autumnal evening, Dr G and I found ourselves perusing once again the familiar menu. To kick off proceedings, we shared a delicious bowl of "Crab and Seafood Bisque" @ £6.95. The broth was creamy and rich, and unlike the more usual smooth bisques, it had small pieces of fish and seafood.

This was followed by another favourite Fox and Anchor dish - "Potted shrimp on toasted crumpets" @ £6.50. I really loved the texture and flavour of the Morecambe Bay brown shrimps served on toasted/buttered crumpets, and the delicious aromas of mace and nutmeg. I would struggle to find a better accompaniment to our first round of pale ales than this dish.

I am always slightly at a loss as what to drink when I visit the Fox and Anchor - the choices of draft and bottled beers can sometimes be mind boggling. The staff are always at hand and are more than happy to advise on their range of beers. On that evening, Dr G and I started on a couple of pale ales, "Sierra Nevada" and "Mad Goose" which were both excellent.

Being a real "Steak Tartare" fan, I just had to have a small "starter" portion @ £7.50. The meat tasted fresh and had been finely chopped - it was well seasoned with onions, gherkins and fresh herbs and was delicious.

The "English asparagus with poached duck egg & hollandaise sauce" @ £7.50 was also very good. The asparagus spears were tender but not overcooked and the accompanying duck egg and the hollandaise sauce were richly contrasting.

For main course, Dr G opted for "Calf's liver, onion gravy and mashed potatoes" @ £14.50. The liver was yielding but still slightly bloody, with the mashed potatoes creamy and perfectly textured to soak up the onion gravy.

Every time I visit the Fox and Anchor, I try and order something other than their burger, and as always, I failed on this occasion. "The Fox and Anchor burger with goose fat chips" @ £12.50 is in my opinion usually one of the best in London. On this visit however I felt the patty was minced a little too finely, making it rather dense, dry and hard. On the other hand, the goose fat chips were faultless.

To accompany our main courses, we shared a large bottle of "Meantime Indian Pale Ale" @ £6. Made in Greenwich, the brewery has its own pub - "Greenwich Union Bar" on Royal Hill which is another favourite of mine south of the River.

The wine list at the Fox and Anchor is comprehensive and well thought out, with many bottles below the £20 mark. On that evening Dr G and I struck up a conversation with Christine, Rob and Estelle, a friendly trio who were merrily working their way through a few of the bottles on offer.

Cost: Around £25 for a 3-course British meal per person excluding drinks.

Likes: Unfussy British cooking, seasonal ingredients at reasonable prices. Excellent range of beers on tap and bottle as well as a decent and well price wine list. I would strongly recommend the goose fat chips, the steak tartare, and the seafood bisque. I also love their pies, particularly the steak and ale.

Dislikes: The large TV screen in the main bar area feels somewhat out of place and can be rather intrusive for those after a relaxing dinner. The burger patty was not up to their usual high standards on this visit.

Verdict: One of my favourite gastro pubs in London, serving great food and a wide selection of beers and wines at very reasonable prices. A very good place to experience what British cooking is all about. Highly recommended.