Flat Three's *Exquisite* Japanese, Korean & British Inspired 5-Course Menu

 Name: Flat Three

Address: 120-122, Holland Park Ave, Notting Hill, London, W11 4UA, https://flatthree.london/

Cost: 5-course tasting menu (with 2 additional appetiser courses) at £59pp with an optional sake and wine pairing for £49pp. There is a lunch menu priced at £33pp on Fridays and Saturdays (when you are welcome to bring your dog(s) with you).

About: Opened in 2015 by Juliana Moustakas, a Korean-American and former London City banker, Flat Three is a restaurant that is tricky to label – think top notch British produce with touches of Japan, Korea and Scandinavia and you are in the right direction, but Flat Three is much more than just a label.

Flat Three refers to Juliana’s home in Holland Park where she used to host her supper club. It was here that Juliana developed her ideas and recipes and hatched her plan to open Flat Three a year after leaving investment banking. Today, Head Chef Joseph Timarchi, a Peruvian who grew up in the USA, leads the kitchen while Juliana oversees the front of house and the wine and sake offerings. More on the exceptional wine and sake pairing in the What We Drank section below.

Timarchi is an avid forager and is the man responsible for much of the fermentation taking place at Flat Three – they make their own miso, natto, garum (fish sauce) and vinegars and countless number of pickles. In fact, Kathrin, the restaurant manager, tells me that there was little if any wastage of ingredients as lockdown was announced – mushrooms were dehydrated, vegetables were fermented into pickles, vinegars were created and aged. Incredible.

The food at Flat Three is innovative and thought-provoking – I love Timarchi’s lightness of touch, and how he incorporates Japanese and Korean ingredients into his non-Asian cooking where nothing seems forced or out of place. Though the ingredients are the real star here - they take pride in sourcing some of the best produce available in the UK, and rightly so, as the quality really shines through.

If you are one of those culinary purists who think everything should taste like your granny’s cooking, perhaps Flat Three is not for you. But if you have an interest in knowing about your shoyu from your Italian garum or your Korean kimchi from your Japanese dashi in dishes that combine them in perfect harmony, you will be in for a treat at Flat Three.

What We Ate: We opted for the 5-course tasting menu with the wine and sake pairing. Menus change seasonally and most of the below dishes plus many others are also available a la carte.

We started with a delightful tartlet made of Japanese kombu and buckwheat flour topped with a brunoise of raw yuzu-marinated courgette, marigold dressing and Shungiku leaves (edible chrysanthemum). The pastry was crisp, toasty and delicate, the yuzu marinating subtle.

Next up was the bread course in the form of grilled ‘mochi’ flat bread with house-cured salmon and wild garlic capers foraged by the chef (during lockdown). A kind of Japanese blini or crumpet, it was made from glutinous rice flour, wheat flour and yeast. It had a lovely toasty, caramelized outer layer and a creamy, chewy interior. This was a great dish.

Heritage tomato and gooseberries came dressed in homemade Tosazu (a Japanese dressing of fermented rice vinegar, bonito flakes and kombu, here enriched with roasted tomato skins) topped with wafer thin toasted rice crackers and Shungiku petals (edible chrysanthemum). A flavour and texture explosion, this was my favourite dish until I tried the octopus below.

Timarchi’s charred octopus and courgettes glazed with smoked pork fat in a kimchi dashi, with fennel flowers and wild garlic was one of the most exquisite dishes I have eaten for quite a while – the dashi and the plump, soft octopus pieces were bursting with intense umami flavours, the sourness and refreshing acidity of the kimchi offsetting the richness of the lardo so exquisitely. Perfection on a plate.

Wild seabass cured for 2 days in salt, was firm and well textured, served with Kabu (Japanese radish leaf) and Shiso (one of the most popular of Japanese herbs, similar to a cross between basil and mint), in a rich creamy dashi flavoured with chilli and garlic.

Equally good was the Sussex chicken, cooked sous vide, served with charred Kabu (Japanese radish leaves), brown butter and chicken fat. The chicken was plump and succulent, the jus rich and full of savoury flavour, I could not help using my spoon to lap up every last drop of this heavenly sauce. An excellently judged dish.

Dessert was milk ice cream made with pokeweed custard (a native American plant from which the berries are used for their red colour and flavour), with whey caramel and a tahini-like sunflower seed sauce. With flavours of Ovaltine, and a light, refreshing texture, this was an original dessert to end a well-accomplished dinner.

What We Drank: A wine connoisseur, Juliana put together a wine and sake pairing for us that was exceptional on many levels – classic French wines, alongside American and other New World bottles all interspaced by some excellent Japanese Junmai sakes. Juliana knows many of the wine producers personally and had always some interesting anecdote to tell about each of their wines. It was evident that much thought that had gone into those pairings. The wine pairing is priced at £49pp.

There is a wide range of wines and sakes available by the glass and bottle, apart from the wine and sake flight. On Tuesday, Wednesdays and Thursdays, it is BYOB with £15 corkage per bottle, maximum 2 bottles per table.

With our tartlet amuse bouche with started with a sake aperitif - a floral Junmai from Miyazaki prefecture, this was aromatic and with a rich, creamy finish.

This was followed by Chanin, a Chardonnay from Santa Maria vineyard, Rita Hills in California, made by Gavin Chanin, who paints his own labels. Oaked, rich and aromatic with citrus and stone fruit flavours, it had a very long finish.

Next up was a biodynamic orange wine - Gut Oggau Timotheus Weiss 2015 from Austria, a blend of Grüner Veltliner and Weissbergunder. A cloudy, unfiltered orange wine, this had a savoury quality.

Our 2nd sake of the evening was Akitabare Daiginjo, “Moonstone” – a rich and aromatic yet pure and light sake.

With our chicken main, we had a Southern Burgundy Ruilly 1er Cru from Jean-Baptiste Ponceau. Rich, complex with well integrated oak, flint, and cedar, this was a fine example of a top white Burgundy.

Dessert was served with a 3rd and final sake - a Koshi no Kanbai, Sai “Blue River” from Niigata. Enjoyed as a Spring drink to celebrate plum blossom season in Japan, this sake had notes of caramel and a rich, savoury finish though refreshing and clean on the palate. This was a great pairing to the lightness and not overly sweet dessert by Timarchi.

Likes: wonderful, thought-provoking food, dog-friendly restaurant (on Fridays and Saturdays at lunchtime only), BYO on Tue, Wed and Thu (max 2 bottles at £15 corkage/bottle), fantastic wine pairing, super friendly and knowledgeable service, loved how the 5-course menu turned out to be a 7-course menu and at £59 for that quality of cooking and ingredients, it is a real steal!

Dislikes: None.

Verdict: Exquisite Japanese, Korean and British inspired dishes that are packed with umami flavour and gorgeously presented. I truly cannot fault a single one, Flat Three’s tasting menu just got better and better after each course. Probably one of my favourite London restaurants right now, I cannot wait to return and try the other dishes on their menu. Very highly recommended.

London Supper Club Review - The Nomad Chef

I recently visited Shelley's supper club in Holland Park. I had heard great reports from other supper club hosts regarding the Nomad Chef, and was pleased to finally meet Shelley and try her cooking.

Location

Set in a beautiful garden flat on a residential street in lush Holland Park, the Nomad Chef dinners take place in her spacious conservatory, with room for up to 22 diners.

The flat is in a Victorian building, and is tastefully decorated with elegant artwork scattered around the main rooms. The modern open-plan kitchen looks out both to the reception room where the guests arrive and mingle with an aperitif and canapés, and the conservatory in which they are seated for dinner.

Food

I was intrigued to see Shelley's menu for the day, and pleased to see a strong influence of Central and South America with items like garlic soup, ceviche and tamales.

As the guests arrived and mingled in the reception room, we were served a canapé of "Spicy Okra", served in paper cones with a chilled glass of Prosecco. The okra was deep fried in a lightly spiced batter. It was crisp and delicious, and I kept going back for more. I am sure I had more than my fair share but Shelley didn't seem to mind!

As we were seated, we were served a flavoursome "Sopa de Ajo" (Garlic Soup). With a intensely rich garlic flavour, the soup was enriched with cubes of fresh tomato and avocado and cheese. It was comforting and refreshing, with fresh citric flavours.

To accompany, we had "Swordfish Ceviche". Thought to be of Peruvian origin, it is made from cubed raw fish pickled in lime juice, served with a variety of vegetables according to which version is being made. Shelley served it attractively in crisp pastry cases.

For the main course, we had a selection of small delectable morcels. These included "Chicken Parcels" - these were well seasoned, and moist having been steamed in baking paper parcels; "Stuffed Courgettes" with rice; the star dish was the "Mushroom Tamales". A combination of flavoursome mushroom and cornmeal steamed in maize leaves, these were dainty and delicious.

For dessert, we were served "Orange, Ginger, Cranberry Steamed Pudding". The aromatic pudding was served with sour cream, and was a suitably warming end to a winter's evening.

Drinks

The Nomad Chef Supper Club is BYO and charges no corkage. On arrival, Shelley served her guests a glass of a deliciously chilled Prosecco on arrival at no extra cost.

People

Originally from the USA, Shelley has lived in London for many years. She is a very open, charismatic and thoughtful host, and will go the extra mile to make her guests feel welcome.

Our table had a mix of interesting people of different nationalities and background. Lovely May from Slow Food Kitchen accompanied me and Dr G. We also shared our table with an English yoga instructor (Shelley's late son's best friend), a German translator and a Norwegian financier.

Cost: £30 per person, plus £1.40 booking fee with EventsBrite.

Likes: great cooking, interesting mix of people, elegant setting, very charming host.

Dislikes: I left feeling that main course portions could have been a little bigger, or that seconds might have been offered.

Verdict: The Nomad Chef is another interesting and cosmopolitan addition to the London’s supper club scene, and is one of very few in West London. I loved Shelley's cooking, her warmth and endearing personality. Highly recommended.

London Supper Club Reviews - Stolen Supper Club

"Inspired by Others, Executed by Us"

I love the concept of Stolen - the above phrase taken from their website says it all. Partners Mia and Leandro started their new venture in 2010, recreating the dining experience of high class restaurants at prices affordable to all.

Stolen is a Monday Supper Club, and on the evening I visited the theme was "Hix Oyster & Chop House". I was impressed by their attention to detail - knowing Mark Hix personally, Mia and Leandro were able to borrow some of the restaurateur's napkins, source the steaks from Jack O'Shea Butchers (his meat supplier), and also Hix's house white wine "Tonnix" by Quinta de la Rosa from the Douro. All the dishes for the evening were recreated from recipes by Hix's own cookbook.

Well, isn't imitation the highest form of flattery after all?

The Location

Located in a cool house in the Notting Hill/Holland Park area, the venue (not the hosts' home) is stylish and spacious with a beautiful back garden ideal for pre-dinner drinks in summer. Guests sit in the dining area with an open plan kitchen while Leandro and his assistant busily prepare the dinner. This in my opinion really adds to the experience at Stolen.

Stolen is one of the more intimate supper clubs in London seating a maximum of 15 guests. The house is a short and pleasant 10 minute walk from Holland Park tube station.

The Food

For starters we were served a platter of "Oyster Mary", large Irish Oysters purchased that morning from Billingsgate Market and topped with a delicious Bloody Mary granita. I enjoyed the unusual combination of alcoholic tomato juice and seafood in this starter and thought the presentation was also very pretty.

Following the oysters, we had a massive "rib-eye steak from Jack O'Shea" butchers, perfectly cooked. It was medium rare and very juicy, and served with matchstick chips, chop house butter, béarnaise sauce and various types of mustard.

After the large steak, I was pleased that the dessert was a light and refreshing shot of "Sloe Gin Jelly" served with "Sorbet and Jersey Cream" which ended the meal perfectly.

The Drinks

Stolen is BYO and no corkage fee is charged. On arrival, we were served a glass of 07 Tonnix by Quinta de la Rosa (Portugal, Douro). This wine was created by the winery in collaboration with Mark Hix, Mitch Tonks, and Tracy Emin for the interesting label.

I really enjoyed this wine, it had heaps of fruit, high flavour intensity (from the Douro summer temperatures), and with a good level of acidity. I felt it a nice touch that Stolen had sourced this delicious wine as most supper clubs do not give much thought to the wines they serve.

The People

Mia Kulla, a half German half Japanese former model, quit the fashion industry to work in hospitality where she has earned her crust for the last 10 years. Leandro Santos, a fellow Brazilian, is a professional chef working at one of London's top restaurants.

Mia and Leandro were very friendly - they sat with us towards the end of the meal and mingled with all the guests. Mia was a very generous and attentive host, opening her own wine to ensure we all had something to drink even when the wine the guests had brought was finished.

Other Stuff

Stolen also provides catering services and has a stall on Thursdays at Maida Hill Market from noon to 5pm. For more information on future supper club evenings, visit their website here.

Cost: Donations vary depending on the weekly menu. On this occasion, the recommended minimum donation was £30 per person. This is excellent value as a similar meal at Hix would cost around £50 for food (£12 oysters, £30 steak, £7 dessert), £27.50 for a bottle of Tonnix wine, and 12.5% service charge i.e. around £150 for two.

Likes: the concept is novel and having a supper club operating on Mondays is also a great addition to the scene. The food was made from top quality ingredients and expertly prepared, the hosts were charming and very friendly.

Dislikes: None.

Verdict: Top restaurant-inspired menus/evenings at affordable prices cooked by professional chef Leandro Santos and girlfriend Mia Kulla. Stolen is a Monday supper club in leafy Holland Park, offering Londoners authentic restaurant quality food in more intimate and convivial surroundings . I love the concept. Highly recommended.