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Tuesday, 6 November 2012
It's been a while since I reviewed a proper burger, so it was about time I revived my earlier search for the best burger in London (see reviews here). I love Japanese food, I adore French cuisine, but it is the humble burger that gets me every time.
So when I heard that Malmaison Hotel's Brasserie in Clerkenwell (reviewed here) had a new burger addition to its grill menu - The Stack - it didn't take much persuasion.
The Stack (£19.95), created by Executive Chef John Woodward, is a meaty feast for any self-respecting carnivore - a succulent 250g patty from 28-day aged Donald Russell Aberdeen Angus beef with Gruyère cheese, grilled bacon, sliced baby gem lettuce, onions and tomatoes. It comes in a deliciously toasted bun (good texture - neither a squidgy bap nor a tough ciabatta) with layers of crispy, battered onions rings. But best of all is the delectable foie gras slider with caramelised onion that tops out this towering new burger. As if this were not enough, a portion of French fries is also included in the deal.
As intimidating as it may seem, I had no trouble in polishing this off, accompanied by a lovely bottle of Valpolicella Ripasso by Villabelvedere, which was priced at a reasonable £28.50. If you are not hungry enough to go for The Stack, you can still enjoy the Mal Burger which is all of the above less the crispy onions rings and foie gras slider (£14.95).