London Restaurant Reviews - The Water Poet in Spitalfields

Words & Photography by Simeen Kadi

Name: The Water Poet

Where: 9 Folgate Street, London, E1 6BX, www.waterpoet.co.uk

Costs: BBQ meals from £13.50, weekday lunch deals from £10



What to eat: With a new high tech barbecue installed, this is the way to go. Dishes on offer include Roast Half Cotswold Spring Chicken and Chorizo with New Potatoes and Orange Saffron Salad and Grilled Fillets of Sea Bass with Samphire, Chilli, Fennel & Mint Salad and Braised Baby Aubergines. The sea bass is delicately cooked over the coals and the baby aubergines are delicious and work well with the fish.


Rib Eye Steak comes with mushrooms, roast garlic and thick cut chips – the meat is juicy and tinged with smoke from judicious grilling. Pub classics from Fish & Chips and Shepherds Pie are also very good.

What to drink: Meantime, Dark Star and London Fields beer on the pumps and a fairly decent wine and spirit list.

Likes: This is a large pub with multiple rooms from a basement bar to a cinema room and even a pool parlour. In the summer it is the outside space that wins out, with large covered patio areas festooned with fairy lights and the barbecue area.

Dislikes: Prepare for a crush at the bars as this pub gets packed later in the week with City workers and Spitalfields locals.

Verdict: For a buzzy atmosphere and a relaxed, outdoor setting, this is a very good option in the City. The food is good and the tunes aren't bad either. 

The London Foodie Goes to Bali - Amed

After a few days in lovely Ubud (see reviews here and here), we hired a car and headed out to the still relatively undeveloped east coast of Bali. Hiring a car in Bali was surprisingly affordable at only £15 per day for an air-conditioned Toyota 5 door vehicle. Filling up the tank was another tenner!

En route to Amed...

There are hardly any traffic lights or road signs in Bali. However there are only a few major roads so driving isn't a problem as English is widely spoken and if you purchase a detailed, £2 map at any petrol station. Within a little over 2 hours' drive, passing through many picturesque villages, rice paddy fields, and beautiful countryside we arrived in Amed. This is the name of a village, but is also used to refer to the local area, a long stretch of coast running from the village of Cucik and seven other villages - Amed, Jemeluk, Bunutan, Lipah, Selang, Banyuning and Aas.

The pace of life here is slow and the coastal scenery quite stunning making Amed a good place for a relaxed few days in Bali. Amed is the most recent tourist development area in Bali. It was only in 2000 that tarmac was laid on the roads. Telephone lines were installed in 2003 and it took until 2007 for a bridge to be built over a section of the main road that regularly washed away during the rainy season.

Amed's inhabitants live from fishing, farming, salt-making and lately tourism, and many hundreds of small fishing boats are seen lined up along the shore during the daytime. The same fishing boats are now also doubling up, taking out visitors out on the sea for diving and snorkelling expeditions for very reasonable prices. There is a strongly rural feel to this area, farmers are abundant, working the paddy fields, with livestock and chickens running around wherever you are, in contrast to the more developed areas around Kuta, Seminyak and Legian. Amed provides an interesting insight to another facet of daily life in Bali.

Amed is also the most commonly used base for visitors wishing to dive the USS Liberty wreck at Tulamben as well as for those wishing to take the PADI courses (scuba diving, more details below). There are many good dive sites close by and a thriving dive industry has developed all the way along the coast here.

Where to Stay

Baliku Dive Resort

Hotels are still in their infancy at Amed, and none of the five star luxury chains have yet made it here. The Baliku Dive Resort is owned by Australian Donna and consists of 9 villas set into the mountains close to Aas, the eastern-most village of the Amed coastal stretch.

Entrance to Baliku Dive Resort

The villas are surrounded by lush gardens, frequented by a variety of birdlife and butterflies, and set above a fishing village with stunning mountain and ocean views to Lombok. Just a few metres from the hotel is a submerged World War II Japanese ship, which has become encrusted with corals making it one of most interesting places for snorkelling and scuba diving in the area.

View from our villa at Baliku Dive Resort

Our spacious room had a king-sized four poster bed with mosquito nets, an en-suite bathroom, and private open-air terrace overlooking the bay. It also had satellite TV, air conditioning, minibar and a DVD player. The hotel has a massive selection of DVD films by the reception area and guests are welcome to watch them. The room was quiet and private as the villas were well separated, built over the hillside with unobstructed sea-views.

Our private veranda

There was also a reasonably large swimming pool with a few loungers for guests as well as a covered pavilion by the pool.

Where to Eat

There are no top-flight restaurants in Amed, and for dinner, most visitors eat in their hotels or at one of the many Warungs (local Indonesian cafes) dotted along the coastline.

The Pavillion Restaurant

We ate dinner at the Baliku Dive Resort's Pavillion Restaurant both nights we stayed there. The restaurant offers great sea-views and is well regarded by residents and visitors to the area.  The dishes were well made and seasoned, and served with either rice or potatoes and salad.

Among the highlights were a deliciously aromatic pumpkin soup which we tried on our first night, and also their fish dishes, particularly the Fish Fillets Bumbu Bali (£3.75) which was braised in a blend of Balinese spices and coconut milk, and served with rice and vegetables. The Sate Lilit (£3.75), a village specialty, was also excellent. This was a blend of fish, shredded coconut and spices, skewered and barbecued, served with rice and a refreshing mango-coriander salsa.

Breakfast at the resort was also very good and rather generous which included good, strong black coffee, freshly made juices, cut tropical fruit, pastries and home-made jams, French cinnamon toasts, and a creamy and utterly delicious black rice pudding with coconut cream and palm sugar. Cooked options were also available including mie goreng (fried noodles), eggs, bacon and sausages among others.

Black Rice Pudding with Coconut Cream and Palm Sugar at Pavillion Restaurant -
I could have lived on this whilst in Amed, it was delicious!

Warung Enak

The top recommended warung is 8km west of the Baliku Dive Resort, and is called Warung Enak on Jamal Amed (the only main road).

It's a simple place by the road side, very clean and with an open-plan kitchen.

We had Mie Goreng (£2) or stir-fried egg noodles with chicken, Ikan Santan (barracuda fish with onion, tomato, Balinese sauce and coconut milk) served with rice and vegetables (£2.50) and fish sate, marinated in garlic, shallot and sweet soy sauce, served with French fries (£2.50). These were all well made, fresh and delicious.

Warung Enak also has a good dessert menu, including local favourites like fried banana fritters with palm sugar, and  Balinese black rice pudding, all priced at around £1. One of the house specialties is the Rice Table (rijsttafel), a spread of 10 dishes plus dessert, which must be ordered 3 hours in advance.

What to Do

Snorkelling

There are good snorkelling sites all along the coast of Amed, and one of the best is in front of the Baliku Dive Resort. Crossing the road in front of the hotel, snorkels, masks and flippers can be hired for £3 for the day.

From the water's edge, it is just a 10 metre swim to the site of the WWII Japanese ship wreck. Marine life is abundant and varied, the water is crystal clear and there are brightly coloured corals, particularly around the wreck itself.

Image Courtesy of Baliku Dive Resort

Image Courtesy of Baliku Dive Resort

I would suggest wearing a t-shirt when snorkelling though - our backs were quite severely burned despite using sun-block after just an hour's snorkelling from 10am.

Image Courtesy of Baliku Dive Resort

Diving 

There are dozens of dive schools along the Amed coast, all offering PADI courses. We checked out the professional looking Euro-Dive centre in Lipah, which offers a range of courses, from a 1 day introduction to 30 day Divemaster qualification. Full details are on their website, but sample prices include £200 for the PADI Open Water course (3-4 days), and £180 for the 2 day PADI Advanced Diver course. 

There are also a number of day trips that can be taken from Amed, including visits to Tirtagangga's water palace, or the volcano Gunung Agung.

Pink Skies at Sunset in Beautiful Amed

Travel Essentials

Amed can be reached by car, it is a 2-2:30 hours drive from Ubud. Private shuttle buses are also available to Amed from all major tourist towns in Bali ranging from £5 to £15 per person depending from where you start.

We used Bangkok's Car Rental for our car hire. This was arranged by our hotel in Ubud (Villa Semana) for £15 per day. You might be able to arrange it more cheaply if you were to approach them directly. They were very accommodating and brought us the car to the hotel in Ubud and collected it at the airport in Denpasar just before we got on to our flight to Lombok. Excellent and friendly service, highly recommended. 

Bangkok's Car Rental
Hanoman Road 30, Ubud
Mobile +62 81 338 781 984
Email: bangkokbalirentcar@gmail.com

A one-bedroom villa at Baliku Dive Resort costs $95 per night including breakfast and taxes for up to two persons sharing, or $157 per night for a family villa. 

Baliku Dive Resort
Banyuning, Amed, Abang
Karangasem
Bali 80852
E mail: info@amedbalidiving.com
www.amedbalidiving.com

Baliku also has its own dive school and shop, which was under-construction during our visit. 

Euro Dive is at Lipah, Amed, Karangasem, Bali. 
E mail: info@eurodive.com
www.eurodivebali.comb

Warung Enak
Jalan Amed
Karangasem
Bali
Email: warungenak@hotmail.com
Phone: 081915679019

London Restaurant Reviews - Gillray's Steakhouse & Bar

Name: Gillray's Steakhouse & Bar

Where: London Marriott Hotel County Hall, Westminster Bridge Road, SE1 7PB (http://gillrays.com/)

Cost: £45-£50 per person on average for a 3-course meal excluding drinks (starters priced from £8 to £12, main courses from £14 to £42, and desserts from £6 to £7).

About: James Gillray, an 18th century London caricaturist famous for his political and social satires, was the inspiration for this steakhouse and bar. It has a quintessentially English character with a drinks menu featuring an impressive 39 English gins, fine wood-panelling, and modern Chesterfield sofas and chairs are dotted around the bar.

Gillray’s Steakhouse & Bar is located in the South Wing of the County Hall with magnificent views of the Thames, Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, and the London Eye.

In one of the busiest tourist areas of London with surprisingly few options for good food and a civilised drink, Gillray's was a good find.

What We Ate: Dr G and I shared a platter of 6 Cornish Oysters (£9.50) served with a Champagne & shallot vinaigrette. These were fresh and vibrant, I just wish I had ordered a full 12 oyster platter.

The hand-chopped steak tartare (£14.50) was too much of a temptation not to be ordered - well seasoned, it was a good start to the meal despite the rather dull presentation.

With 35-day dry aged Aberdeen Angus beef from Yorkshire on the menu, our choices were not difficult. Dr G went for the Porterhouse Steak 450g (£35) while I had an entire T-Bone Steak 600g (£42).

The beef was cooked just as ordered - medium rare, red in the middle, and deliciously tender. Unsurprisingly at £42, my T-Bone steak was well flavoured, and perfectly accompanied by a serving of Truffle & Old Winchester Cheese Chips (£4.50).  It was a very generous portion, and I had only just managed to polish it off when I was told that it was intended for two!

Dr G very much enjoyed his more manageable Porterhouse steak, with Triple Cooked Chips (£3.50).

What We Drank: The Head Barman, Carlos Santos, is a fellow Brazilian, whom I was fortunate to meet and chat with.  He fixed Dr G a Gun Powder & Smoke Cocktail (£14), made from Hayman's 1850 Reserve gin mixed with Gunpowder green tea tincture, Remy Martin VSOP, lime juice, sugar, egg white and finished off with an ignited Laphroaig whisky (the smoke) which was quite a spectacle.
  

I opted for a Gillray's Ginger Martini (£10) - fresh ginger muddled with ginger syrup, shaken with infused ginger Chase vodka, Stone's Ginger Wine, dash of King's Ginger Liqueur, fresh lime juice and apple juice, which was equally good.

The wine list is primarily new world, well-thought out and with some interesting choices like the 2001 Chateau Musar (£75), one of my favourite wines. Prices start from £29 and quickly escalate. To accompany our steaks, we had a bottle of 2009 Shiraz from Barossa Valley (Australia) by Bethany G6 (£42)  chosen for us by Carlos. It was an excellent choice - big, bold and more than a match for the Aberdeen Angus.

Likes: Great steaks, cocktails and views, an impressive stock of English gins.

Dislikes: It would have been nice to have more affordable wine choices.

Verdict: In one of the most touristic parts of town, Gillray's is a real find - a stunning historic building with spectacular Westminster views and a selection of fine English gins and steaks, it ticks a lot of boxes. Recommended.

London Restaurant Reviews - Beagle

Working like a dog? Come to Hoxton to rest and play

Words & Photography by Simeen Kadi

Name: Beagle

Where: 397 - 400 Geffrye Street, London, E2 8HZ  http://www.beaglelondon.co.uk

Cost: Average £6 for starters and £16 for mains. Cocktails from £8.

About: Beagle is in the railway arches right next to Hoxton station. Sitting on the large terrace, the view of the back of the Geffrye Museum is almost bucolic. And, on a rare sunny day in London, there are few better places to while away an afternoon.

What we drank: The Bloody Mary here is made with vodka infused with chorizo which gives the drink a deep, smoky flavour. Their signature martini is also excellent with coriander bitters and caraway balancing out the sweetness of the vermouth.

When you are on your second martini and the sun has decided to come out, on the terrace is exactly where you want to be for some stylish people-watching and languid weekend lounging. I have now been here a few times and sat both inside and outside. The huge glazed arches mean light-flooded interiors while the terrace is sheltered and quiet, facing only a pedestrianised street.

What we ate: Starters such as Octopus with Tomatoes come wood-fired and anointed with a fresh and bright coriander sauce. Beetroot, Bitter Leaves and Bantam Egg makes use of the freshest ingredients, brought together by a zippy vinaigrette.

The Crab, Samphire and Cucumber Salad was as cool and crisp as it read on the menu.
Mains were very British in their provenance and cooking style. Tamworth Pork Chop came with lentils and a deep, meaty gravy.

Onglet was cooked as rare as it should be and came with fat chips cooked (two, three times? Who knows?) in duck fat. I would have preferred skinny, French-style fries, but I may be in a minority on this.
The wood-fired treatment of food is something of a speciality here; Beagle's location under a railway line means no gas is permitted. And so, a necessity becomes a virtue as dishes come tinged with a hint of wood-flame as the kitchen relies on wood burning stoves.

We have not tried the desserts but we have watched others nod and smile agreeably at the variety of puddings proffered. The kitchen will also bake a cake for your birthday celebrations and I watched a large party singing along heartily around a birthday cake - at least until the birthday girl accidentally set fire to her hair while blowing out the candles. But, the sun was out and the setting was so convivial that no one seemed to mind.

Likes: Great food, relaxed atmosphere and truly helpful staff. The cocktails keep flowing on the terrace and the music is exceptionally good.

Dislikes: In fact, there is very little not to like about Beagle. So, I will have a mini-gripe about these teeny-tiny annoyances. The bar snacks are well made but vary greatly in size. The pork pie was a good hunk of meat wrapped in a thick wedge of pastry alongside homemade piccalilli. The pig's head croquettes, however, were superb but infuriatingly small - I could have eaten 3 portions on my own. Another mystery is why food from the restaurant cannot be ordered in the bar area - we were given some excuse about licencing laws which sounded highly implausible.

Verdict: Beagle is bound to become the go-to destination of the summer (now that things are looking promising weather-wise). It is already in my top 10 for casual alfresco drinking and dining.

Sunshine Brunch

Words & photos by Su-Lin Ong

A weekend brunch fry-up calls for a sizzle with imagination.  It has to wake you up and shake you up.  You need the comfort factor, but also something bright, beautiful and zingy.

Photo: Louis Fernando

Caravan Kings Cross gives that promise from the moment you step into its lofty converted granary space.  Aromas of Caravan’s 100 percent Arabica freshly roasted coffee beans, proper meaty bacon and freshly squeezed fruit tell you that you will be in no hurry to leave.  But look beyond the classic brunch flavours and get tempted by more adventurous dishes using velvety puréed aubergines, soutzouki sausages, rhubarb, coconut and more.

On the menu there’s a sip with a difference, and it’s making a début in many other brunch hotspots around town too.
  

The place is buzzing, and at Caravan’s large communal table next to the coffee roastery, cocktail mixologist Alex Kammerling is treating his guests to his Sunshine brunch.  The table is laid with tumbling yellow tomatoes and sunny yellow peppers.  As guests tuck into brunch, Alex pours round his Sunshine Mary.  He has re-invented the classic, savoury British Bloody Mary and mixes his Kamm & Sons ginseng spirit and choicest yellow Lemoncita tomato juice from the Isle of Wight.  He has snapped up most of the season’s juice for bars and restaurants around town, but you may still find bottles in deli’s and food halls such as Selfridges.

These yellow cherry tomatoes have a delicate sweet, slight lemony flavour, and the juice is far smoother and lighter than most red tomato juices.  It won a Great Taste Gold award from the Guild of Fine Foods and it is a subtle partner for Alex’s herbal ginseng spirit.  Juggle a few spicy, sharp flavours of celery salt, green Tabasco, fresh horseradish, lemon juice, salt and pepper.  Up the heat if you will.  Alex adds a dash of devilish Dalston Chillies Original Hot Sauce.  

Savoury, sweet, spicy, and refreshingly ice cool - the Sunshine Mary has it all going on so seductively.

Su-Lin Ong  (@sloLondon) brunched on behalf of The London Foodie as a guest of Alex Kammerling.

Caravan
Granary Building, Granary Square (off Goods Way)
London 
N1C 4AA
Tel. 020 7101 7661
www.caravankingscross.co.uk

Kamm & Sons ginseng spirit www.kammandsons.com

The London Foodie Goes To Bali - Ubud (Part II)

With so much to do and see in Ubud (see my earlier post here), the 4 days we spent there seemed rather rushed. Ubud is the artistic capital of the island, and is a hub for art galleries, smart cafes, top class restaurants and antique shops. It is also highly popular with visitors looking for something a little more sophisticated than nearby Kuta, and is a good place to stay for a few days or even a week or two.

Where to Stay 

Of the 4 wonderful days we spent in Ubud, two were at Villa Semana, a collection of 10 unique villas each with their own private pool, set on the banks of the Ayung River about 4 miles southwest of central Ubud.

The entrance to the resort is breathtaking, overlooking a series of rice paddies cultivated by local farmers, leading into a meticulously maintained footpath and to the hotel's beautiful grounds. The resort has no reception area and each guest is escorted and checked into their own private villa by the staff on arrival.

Our villa was stylishly decorated and comfortable, with a large 4 poster bed draped with mosquito nets, cream marbled floors, a semi open-air shower, as well as standard mod cons like a CD player, a minibar, safe and aircon.

The winning feature for me was that the villa opened up to our own private swimming pool (in fact all villas have their own pool) with wonderful views to the Ayung River.

Private swimming pool in our villa at Vila Semana, overlooking the Ayung River

My office for the day....

The resort has also a fine, communal infinity pool surrounded by trees, with great views over the river valley and forest. The hotel's open air restaurant where breakfast is taken overlooks the swimming pool and is a wonderful place to while away the hours.

The owner, Jurg Suter, is a larger than life Swiss hotelier, with several other properties in Bali and Singapore, but who has lived all over the world including London. Given a few minutes, he will entertain you with fascinating stories of his varied career as well as anecdotes of the many A-list visitors to Ubud and Villa Semana. He is also full of useful information and advice about places to eat, stay and visit all over the island.

Service at Villa Semana was very good, and attentive, particularly by Ayu, the manageress. She arranged a car for us to hire, which was brought to the hotel on the morning of our departure for an excellent rate, and also gave advice on places to visit on our way to Amed.  

Where to Eat

Ibu Oka Warung, Jalan Tegal

This tiny cafe (the original one of a chain of 3) is an institution in Ubud, drawing in locals from the whole island as well as foreigners in search of the only item on the menu - Babi Guling or Balinese roast suckling pig. This is one of the most traditional dishes of Bali, and is served throughout the island from humble road-side cafes to the more elegant fine-dining establishments. Gastronomically speaking, a visit to Bali would not be complete without sampling this delicacy.

Around 30 pigs are served each day at Ibu Oka, arriving by motorbike from the larger kitchens at Ibu Oka 3 nearby and presented in chunks in rattan bowls with rice, sausages, crispy skin, fried intestines and spicy vegetables for the grand sum of £2. For £2.65, you can order a plate of pure pork meat, or another of crispy skin. The pork is wonderfully tender and succulent, and the crackling perfectly crispy.

There are no reservations - it's first come first served, and it is best to arrive before noon to avoid the queues. The restaurant is open from 10.30 am for lunch only. The original restaurant where we ate is a very simple cafe with only 3 or 4 western-style tables, although there is more seating available where customers sit crossed-legged on the floor, which can be uncomfortable.

Ibu Oka 3 is only a five minute walk away, and offers exactly the same menu in a much larger, prettier and more comfortable venue.

Pondok Restaurant, Villa Semana Hotel

Villa Semana's restaurant overlooks the infinity pool over the Ayung river, and serves a variety of Balinese, Indonesian and Thai dishes, as well as offering a good selection of wines and even a humidor of Havana cigars at reasonable prices. Unfortunately, we didn't get to eat at the restaurant, except for the excellent breakfasts and complimentary afternoon tea served each day.

Sweetest platter of freshly cut fruit at Villa Semana

Breakfast was sumptuous at Villa Semana, with a variety of classic French options like Croque Monsieur and Eggs Benedict (which we tried and were delicious), as well as Balinese options like Mee Goreng and Chicken Porridge which were very good too.

The coffee was excellent, as well as the platters of ripe, freshly cut, deliciously sweet tropical fruit with vanilla yoghurt we were served each morning.

Kafe Batan Waru

In the centre of Ubud on Jalan Dewi Sita, Kafe Batan Waru is a renowned and popular eatery which was highly recommended to us. We had a good meal there of traditional Balinese dishes including Urap Pakis (£1.75), a dish of steamed wild fern tips with roasted shredded coconut and Balinese spices which was delicious.

We also had Nasi Campur (£4) - a rice dish served with beef tenderloin, red chilli chicken, beef sate, long beans in Kalasan sauce, whole prawn fritter, egg and sambals. This dish is also served at breakfast, and each restaurant has its own version.

The main event was Bebek Goreng (£7) - an Ubud specialty, this was a lovely half duck, slow-simmered with spice paste and then fried crisp, and served with long-beans and sambal.

What to Do

The hotel is around 3 miles from central Ubud, and there are no other hotels, restaurants or shops nearby. This makes for an admirably tranquil stay, and one of the nicest things is to lounge by  the private pool, the river, or the infinity pool. The hotel also offers a free shuttle service to and from Ubud every hour between 07.30 and 22.30, so it is very easy to get into town if you need to. There are a number of excursions on offer, including visits to nearby temples, volcanoes and rice paddy walking and cycling excursions.

Shopping

Being the artistic capital of Bali, there are a number of art galleries, antique shops and boutiques selling local craft goods. Jalan Raya Sanggingan has a smattering of such shops, and is a good place to purchase tasteful Balinese artefacts including traditional Indonesian wedding head dresses, pottery and paintings were available for purchase.
     

Spa Treatments 

Villa Semana has a charming open-air spa on the banks of the Ayung river, offering a variety of Balinese treatments. These range from a traditional 60 minute Balinese massage at £30, to the 'Angel's Realm' 150 minute treatment that includes a footbath and body massage followed by the traditional Lulur scrub made from turmeric, a coating in avocado yoghurt and finally a floral bath, at £65.

Treatments are also widely available in Ubud at substantially lower cost (around £5-10 per hour) at many spas around town. We visited the oldest one, Nur Salon on Jalan Hanoman, which is set in a traditional Balinese compound with beautiful gardens, a temple in the grounds, and screened, open-air treatment rooms. A magical place.

We had the traditional 1 hour Balinese massage followed by a hot bath (£10). We visited twice, the masseurs were excellent on both visits, and the spa surroundings were also beautiful. There are dozens of different treatments on offer.

Travel Essentials

We flew to Denpasar, Bali via Singapore, for around £600 with Singapore Airlines. Several Gulf airlines offer return flights from the UK at similar prices.

Villa Semana
Banjar Semana
Desa Singakerta
Ubud 80571
PO Box 10036
E mail: info@villasemana.com
www.villasemana.com

Rooms rates at Villa Semana range from £200 to £450 per night. This also varies according to the season. All have a private plunge pool, in addition to the main infinity pool.

Ibu Oka 3
Jalan Tegal Sari No.2
Ubud 80571
t: (0564) 976 345 

Kafe Batan Waru
Jalan Dewi Sita, Ubud, Bali
t: (0361) 977 528
www.baligoodfood.com

Nur Spa
Jalan Hanoman 28
Padangtegal
Ubud 80571
E mail: nursalonubud@yahoo.com