London Restaurant Reviews - Malmaison Hotel London (Bar & Brasserie)

There are few meals I could describe as perfect - but my latest visit at Malmaison was one such. Deep fried seafood, followed by juicy steak and crisp fries with tarragon aioli, and vanilla crème brulée - each was better than the last. I loved it.

Malmaison London is in the heart of Clerkenwell, tucked away in the historic Charterhouse Square, close to the City and West End. A stone's throw from the Barbican, a regular haunt of mine, Malmaison is my latest find in this neck of the woods.

The menu is seasonal and features a range of reinterpreted Classic British and European dishes. The restaurant's head chef, John Woodward, goes to great lengths to find his produce within Greater London. The latest menu has an excellent offer of two courses, a bottle of wine and coffee for only £30 for two people, available by downloading and printing the voucher here.
 

On my latest visit, the "Fritto Misto" @ £8.50 was a delicious mix of deep fried plump scallops, squid, and prawn served with a lemon aioli sauce. The fish tasted ultra-fresh and tender, and was covered in a deliciously light and crisp batter. A magnificent starter.

For main I had a massive 500g "Cotes de Boeuf" @ £28 which was also outstanding. The meat was beautifully cooked and well flavoured, with a rich Bearnaise sauce. Beef at Malmaison is supplied by Donald Russell, and is grass fed, naturally reared and aged for at least 28 days.

To accompany my steak I had a portion of "Hand Cut Fries" with Tarragon aioli @ £3.50. These were crisp and tasted delicious with the aniseed/garlic sauce.

Malmaison's "Vanilla Crème Brulée" @ £5.95 was another winner. A rich and unctuous custard under a thin layer of hard caramel, it makes me smile whenever I hear it cracking (particularly under my own spoon!).

The wine list is comprehensive and relatively well priced for a restaurant of this calibre. Stuart, the sommelier, is knowledgeable and unlike many others in his profession, will discreetly take your cue and suggest the most appropriate wines within your price range. Malmaison House wine is priced at £19.95, with other options within the £20 and £30 brackets or above. On this occasion, we had a "2009 A2O Albarino from Rias Baixas" @ £35 showing excellent apricot and mineral characters. 

Similarly, our choice of red wine, the "2006 Chateau de Lugagnac from Bordeaux" @ £32 was an excellent wine with ripe red fruit notes and soft tannins.

Not so long ago on another visit, Dr G and I had an equally good dinner. We began with a couple of fine starters - "Premier Cheese Creamed Bath Soft" @ £6.50, a lovely dish made of melted cheese, Port poached pear, endive, and salted pecans.

Along with this we had "Grilled Squid, Chorizo and Parsley Salad" @ £7.50. I love the combination of pork and seafood and Malmaison's version did not disappoint.

For main, I chose a "Girolles and Samphire Risotto" @ £17 which was superlative. The buttery rice was perfectly al dente, and intensely flavoured with rich wild mushrooms and flavours of the sea.

Dr G opted for the "Roasted Grouse" @ £22. This was served with puy lentils, roasted garlic puree, bacon and a red wine jus. Grouse can sometimes be a tough and dry bird but Malmaison's was yielding, succulent and unimprovebly good.

"Domaine de Font Sane, Gigondas, 2007" @ £45 was a splendid wine from the Southern Rhone, a blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah and Cinsault. It was full-bodied and well structured with plenty of red and black fruits and fine balancing tannins.

There is no better way to finish off a substantial meal than with a refreshing ice cream. The "Cherry and Amaretto Sundae" @ £5.95 was a delicious concoction of pistachio ice cream, crushed amaretto biscuits and fruit, and was a great end to a magnificent meal.

Cost: The London Foodie was a guest of Malmaison. I estimate that a 3-course meal would cost around £25 to £35 per person (excl. drinks).

Likes: excellent local produce and great cooking skills, very well priced menu (particularly the regular promotions), comprehensive wine list, great location between Smithfield's Meat Market and the Barbican Arts Centre.

Dislikes: none.

Verdict: Excellent restaurant in the heart of Clerkenwell serving British and Modern European dishes with a modern interpretation. Creative and delicious cooking at very reasonable prices matched by a well thought out wine list. Very highly recommended.

London Restaurant Reviews - Mien Tay (Kingsland Road)

My first experience of Mien Tay was at their Battersea branch on Lavender Hill. Bibendum Wines had devised a fantastic wine list for the restaurant and invited a few food and wine bloggers to try their pairings. The food was exceptional and so were the wines, but unfortunately Mien Tay is still trying to obtain its alcohol licence.

The Shoreditch branch is also a BYO attracting a young, hip crowd after a cheap night out. The restaurant is poorly decorated in lime green colours, dusty plastic plants and flowers, and the furniture, a mix of mismatched tables and chairs in wicker and glass, is tired and greasy. Tables are densely packed, and if you happen to be seated by a feuding couple (as Dr G and I were on this occasion) you will just need to grin and bear it.

The menu is extensive and choices are mind boggling. I am always a bit concerned when I see hugely varied menu choices like this. It sometimes indicates a lack of focus and makes me question the freshness of the ingredients.

After much deliberation, Dr G and I started with a portion of "Salt, Pepper and Garlic Squid" @ £6. The squid was deliciously crisp and well seasoned but was slightly overcooked and on the chewy side.

The "Chargrilled Quail with Honey, Garlic and Spices" @ £4.80 that followed was a much better dish. The caramelised honey on the chargrilled skin intensified the sweetness of the meat, which tasted of cinnamon and star-anise - a sensational dish.

Mien Tay's "Rice Vermicelli with Spring Rolls and Pork Bun" @ £6 was another winner. The pork was nicely grilled, and tasted delicious with the combination of spring rolls, salad, fresh herbs and just the right amount of rice noodles. The balance of these components was unimprovably good. One of the best "buns" I have had for a long time.

The "Crispy Fried Sea Bass with Lemongrass and Chilli" @ £10 was impressively large but sadly disappointing. The delicious, vibrant seasoning could not compensate for the poor quality of the flesh - it tasted dull and had a texture akin to previously frozen fish.

One of their signature dishes is the "Stir Fried Goat Galangal" @ £6.50. With a lightly curried coconut sauce, the meat was finely sliced and served with onions and fresh herbs. This was a delicious dish, nicely accompanied by Vietnamese " Steamed Rice" @ £2.

In my opinion, the star of the evening was "Mien Tay's Crispy Chicken with Fish Sauce" @ £5. Folds of chicken skin deep fried until crisp in a sweet shallot and fish sauce, this somewhat unlikely sounding dish was utterly delectable.

Overall our experience at Mien Tay Shoreditch was mixed. We tried some excellent dishes, but others were disappointing. The restaurant lacks atmosphere, service is rushed and impersonal, and the general state of upkeep is poor. For example, as we were finishing our meal, large buckets brimming with dirty plates, chopsticks and refuse were taken past our table to the adjoining restaurant which shares the same kitchen.

Cost: the total cost for the above dishes was £40.30 (not including BYO wine). There was enough to feed 4 people, so I estimate that £10-£15 would be sufficient per head. Potentially good value for money.

Likes: possibly the only BYO option on Kingsland Road. Mien Tay's crispy chicken with fish sauce and the chargrilled quail with honey, garlic and spices were excellent. Inexpensive.

Dislikes: the decor and general upkeep need to be looked at. Patchy cooking - excellent at best let down by mediocre parts.

Verdict: Cheap and cheerful Vietnamese restaurant on Kingsland Road. Some excellent dishes, but patchy standards overall. Given the number of restaurants on Kingsland Road serving food of similar or better standards in more agreeable environments, Mien Tay needs to up its game in my opinion.

London Supper Club Review - The Nomad Chef

I recently visited Shelley's supper club in Holland Park. I had heard great reports from other supper club hosts regarding the Nomad Chef, and was pleased to finally meet Shelley and try her cooking.

Location

Set in a beautiful garden flat on a residential street in lush Holland Park, the Nomad Chef dinners take place in her spacious conservatory, with room for up to 22 diners.

The flat is in a Victorian building, and is tastefully decorated with elegant artwork scattered around the main rooms. The modern open-plan kitchen looks out both to the reception room where the guests arrive and mingle with an aperitif and canapés, and the conservatory in which they are seated for dinner.

Food

I was intrigued to see Shelley's menu for the day, and pleased to see a strong influence of Central and South America with items like garlic soup, ceviche and tamales.

As the guests arrived and mingled in the reception room, we were served a canapé of "Spicy Okra", served in paper cones with a chilled glass of Prosecco. The okra was deep fried in a lightly spiced batter. It was crisp and delicious, and I kept going back for more. I am sure I had more than my fair share but Shelley didn't seem to mind!

As we were seated, we were served a flavoursome "Sopa de Ajo" (Garlic Soup). With a intensely rich garlic flavour, the soup was enriched with cubes of fresh tomato and avocado and cheese. It was comforting and refreshing, with fresh citric flavours.

To accompany, we had "Swordfish Ceviche". Thought to be of Peruvian origin, it is made from cubed raw fish pickled in lime juice, served with a variety of vegetables according to which version is being made. Shelley served it attractively in crisp pastry cases.

For the main course, we had a selection of small delectable morcels. These included "Chicken Parcels" - these were well seasoned, and moist having been steamed in baking paper parcels; "Stuffed Courgettes" with rice; the star dish was the "Mushroom Tamales". A combination of flavoursome mushroom and cornmeal steamed in maize leaves, these were dainty and delicious.

For dessert, we were served "Orange, Ginger, Cranberry Steamed Pudding". The aromatic pudding was served with sour cream, and was a suitably warming end to a winter's evening.

Drinks

The Nomad Chef Supper Club is BYO and charges no corkage. On arrival, Shelley served her guests a glass of a deliciously chilled Prosecco on arrival at no extra cost.

People

Originally from the USA, Shelley has lived in London for many years. She is a very open, charismatic and thoughtful host, and will go the extra mile to make her guests feel welcome.

Our table had a mix of interesting people of different nationalities and background. Lovely May from Slow Food Kitchen accompanied me and Dr G. We also shared our table with an English yoga instructor (Shelley's late son's best friend), a German translator and a Norwegian financier.

Cost: £30 per person, plus £1.40 booking fee with EventsBrite.

Likes: great cooking, interesting mix of people, elegant setting, very charming host.

Dislikes: I left feeling that main course portions could have been a little bigger, or that seconds might have been offered.

Verdict: The Nomad Chef is another interesting and cosmopolitan addition to the London’s supper club scene, and is one of very few in West London. I loved Shelley's cooking, her warmth and endearing personality. Highly recommended.

Preview of Wikio's Top 20 London Blogs

As you may know, Wikio publishes Top Blog Rankings every month on various categories including Gastronomy, Politics, Sports, to name just a few. These rankings are compiled by taking into account the number and weight of incoming links from other blogs or articles. In other words, the ranking position will depend on how well "linked" up a particular blog is within a certain category.

New for the month of March, here is the latest ranking from Wikio of the Top 20 London Blogs. The official list will be published by Wikio on the 5th March 2011.

1	Londonist
2	853
3	MayorWatch
4	Going Underground's Blog
5	London Reconnections
6	IanVisits
7	Dave Hill's London blog
8	Spitalfields Life
9	diamind geezer
10	Snipe
11	Transpontine
12	Brockley Central
13	Tired of London, Tired of Life
14	The Greenwich Phantom
15	HOOKED
16	The Great Wen
17	The Blackheath Bugle
18	LondonNet -
19	onionbagblog
20	The London Foodie

Ranking made by Wikio

London Cooking Club - Catalan Cooking with Guest Chef Rachel McCormack

Last Saturday the delightful Rachel McCormack of Catalan Cooking joined the London Cooking Club for an evening of Spanish cooking, cheeses and wines. Eleven other diners and readers of this blog, a mix of former and new members, were in for a treat as Rachel prepared us a sumptuous Catalan feast.

To read more about our latest event, visit the Musings of a W8 Housewife, Hot & Chilli and Kitchen Conversations blogs for their lovely reviews.

If you would like to join us at one of our events, visit the London Cooking Club page in this blog for more information. Altenatively, you can subscribe to The London Foodie for updates via e-mail or RSS and be the first to learn when new dates are published.

London's Best Hotels - Andaz Hotel Liverpool Street

One of the more exciting aspects of running a food blog is that I sometimes get invited to restaurants and hotels in and around London, and have the opportunity to meet and chat with their chefs and owners. Such visits may not always reflect what a paying customer might encounter but they do offer a revealing insight into what these businesses are about and what they can offer.

I have cycled past the Andaz Hotel in Liverpool Street for years on my way to work without giving it much thought, possibly because it is a hotel, and I have always thought of hotel restaurants as options purely for tourists or business travellers. This common held view is now being challenged by a number of excellent hotel restaurants, such as Bar Boulud (Mandarin Oriental), Bistrot Bruno Loubert (Zetter Hotel), and The Petersham Hotel Restaurant to name just a few. The 1901 Restaurant at The Andaz Hotel is my latest find.

The Andaz Hotels are the boutique arm of the giant Hyatt Group. The London branch occupies the premises of the former Great Eastern Hotel, adjacent to Liverpool Street Station. Arriving 15 minutes early, I had some time as I waited in the lobby to soak up the atmosphere, people watch and see how the staff went about their business. With no formal reception area, the same member of staff would greet, check in, and take guests to their rooms. It felt like a much more personal experience than is usual in hotels of this size.

To start, I was given a tour of the hotel, shown a few rooms and some of the other amenities. The rooms were modern and elegant, mostly decorated in sober white, black, and red colours, with dark wood and leather. The biggest pull for me however was to learn that the hotel had a series of restaurants and bars, through most of which we would pass during the evening!

After the quick tour, The Champagne Bar was our first stop. Here we had some fine Perrier Jouet Champagne, and a selection of scrumptious sushi and sashimi platters specially made by the hotel's Miyako Restaurant. I seldom have the pleasure of drinking Champagne together with Sushi, but felt the combination worked extremely well. The fine biscuit and brioche aromas of the Champagne were the perfect accompaniment to the fish and sweet sushi rice.

The sashimi platters had some ultra-fresh and creamy pieces of salmon, seabass, tuna, prawn and mackerel @ £17.00. We also had California, Prawn Tempura, and Salmon and Avocado inside-out rolls all priced @ £7.

Our next stop was Catch - the seafood restaurant.

Here, we had a delicious starter of South Devon Crab Cake and Consommé @£10, followed by Steamed Norwegian Cod @ £22. These were cooked by Head Chef Martin Scholz, who came out to greet us.

The food was beautifully matched with a 2008 Margaret River Viognier, (Stella Bella, Western Australia), and a 2008 Chablis Premier Cru Montmain from Louis Michel et Fils. These were excellent examples of their type, expressing the fruit and terriors characteristics of these grapes and regions.

To finish, we headed for the hotel's fine dining option, the 1901 Restaurant. Here, we had a course of cheese and wine tasting (starts from £45 per person).

Of the many fine wines we had for this course, some of the more outstanding were in my opinion the Ma Mas Amiel Prestige, 15 Ans d'Age, and a 2008 Toscano Rosso IGT "Tuttobene" from Tenimenti Angelini.

The dessert was an exquisite mille-feuille with pear, red currants and spun sugar, served with an excellent 2008 Coteaux du Layon, from Domaine Phillippe Delesvaux at Saint-Aubin.

The two other locations which I had the chance to visit were the George Pub, traditionally English with oak panelling and a fine selection of ales, and the Eastway brasserie where diners can have a casual bite to eat.

I was pleased to have been invited to the Andaz Hotel, and to discover what a beautiful place it is, and explore its range of restaurants and bars. I would not hesitate in recommending it to family or friends who want to stay in the area. Its proximity to Brick Lane, Hoxton, Columbia Road and Spitalfields makes it an interesting alternative for visitors wanting something beyond the West End experience.

Cost: The London Foodie was a guest of the Andaz Hotel Liverpool Street. The hotel has 5 restaurants/bars to accommodate a range of budgets, although prices reflect location and the high standard of service, food and wine.

Likes: Great sushi, Champagne bar, and an outstanding wine list. The cheese and wine tasting course will certainly get me back. Personable service, convenient location for a drink after work in the Square Mile, and an alternative to the madness of the West End.

Dislikes: The City corporate types which the hotel may attract might not make for the best environment for a relaxed or romantic evening out.

Verdict: Cool elegant hotel in a central location, with a range of good restaurants and bars. Good quality sushi, Champagne bar and wine list. Highly recommended.