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Tuesday, 21 February 2017

The London Foodie Goes to Spain’s Castilla-La Mancha – The Historic Town of Consuegra for Saffron G&Ts and Tilting at Windmills


Travelling through the region of Castilla-La Mancha in Spain, I got to experience much of what this part of the country has to offer – the fabulous cooking, and affordable fine dining scene in Toledo, reviewed here, as well as the charming theatre town of Almagro, and the nearby Parque Nacional de las Tablas de Daimiel, a great place for bird watching, hiking and communing with nature, which I also wrote about here.



In this third feature, I report on the tiny town of Consuegra in Castilla-La Mancha, situated between Cuidad Real and Toledo. This is the home of the famous windmills of Consuegra, which were immortalised in Cervantes’ classic book Don Quixote. 


Molinos de Viento de Consuegra (the Windmills of Consuegra)

The twelve huge windmills are on the top of a hill, and originally served to grind wheat flour. 


Each has its own name, and at the Bolero windmill you will find the Tourist Office. 


Here it is also possible to see the grinding stone and the full mechanism from inside the windmill.


But the best thing to do here is to walk around the white windmills, taking stock of the wonderful scenery of the castle and the surrounding hills.  


Saffron Gin & Tonic at Café La Antigua

Spain is one of the top quality producers of saffron in the world, and here at Consuegra, one of the most enjoyable ways to try this highly prized spice is in a good old-fashioned G&T, as I discovered at the Café La Antigua. 


Barman Jesus fixed us some mean G&Ts at Café La Antigua, and I was intrigued to see that the saffron strands were frozen into the ice cubes, rather than used to infuse the gin as I have done in the past. This version made for a subtly coloured and flavoured cocktail, and I thoroughly enjoyed it.


The town is also known for its hojaldre, a sugared puff pastry treat that went down very well with our saffron G&Ts. 


Café La Antigua is a great stop on the way to or from the windmills of Consuegra.

Museo Casa de Cervantes in Esquivias

If you have read Don Quixote or have an interest in the life and work of Miguel Cervantes, I would recommend a visit to the Museo Casa de Cervantes. 


Situated in the town of Esquivias in the province of Toledo, Castilla-La Mancha, Museo Casa de Cervantes was originally the 16th century home of the eponymous writer and his wife Caterina de Palacios. The building has been painstakingly restored and gives a real feel for how Cervantes and Caterina might have lived their lives. 


This is also where Cervantes did a lot of his writing, and is therefore a place of great historic significance. It is thought that many of his characters were inspired by the town of Esquivias and its inhabitants, which contributed to his extraordinary literary creations within the walls of this house. 


Adjacent to the house there is an impressive exhibition of sketches bringing to life the fascinating life story of Spain’s most famous writer.  This is a great place to spend a couple of hours learning all about Cervantes.


Wines from the Land of Don Quixote 

Located in Bargas in the Province of Toledo, Bodega Finca Loranque is a 200-year-old winery, and is among the oldest in the region. Perhaps paradoxically, the winery is equipped with state of the art technology, which helps it produce some of the most prized wines of the area. 


Castilla-La Mancha is one of Spain’s most important wine producing regions, with nine Denominaciónes de Origen (DOs). It is the largest continuous vine growing area in the world, and consequently it is also where more than half of the country’s grapes are grown. 


Historically known for the bulk production of table wine, recent years (and particularly 1986 when Spain joined the European Union) have seen a winemaking revolution which has transformed the image and quality of Castilla-La Mancha’s wines.


At Bodega Finca Loranque we were told that both large producers and single estates in Castilla-La Mancha now employ modern wine making technologies, combined with a judicious selection of grape varieties to make the most of the challenging Continental climate – with very hot summers and very cold winters. As a result only grape varieties which can tolerate such testing conditions are planted, including Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha and Syrah.


On our visit to Bodega Finca Loranque, we had a wine tasting with the winemaker. The tasting started with a Finca Loranque 2013 Syrah-Tempranillo 50:50 blend. Aged for fourteen months in French and American oak barrels, this had powerful red fruit compote quality with hints of liquorice.


Next up was the Finca Loranque 2013 Cencibel, the first vintage of this new wine. It came from a small 2-hectare vineyard plot, and only 4,000 bottles were made. With cherry colour, aromatic herbs, red fruit, vanilla and cinnamon and a balancing acidity, this was an elegant and rounded wine, with well-integrated tannins and a medium finish. 


Better still was the Loranque de La Cruz 2013, made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Hand harvested and aged 16 months in oak barrique, this had powerful aromas of deep red fruit, with vanilla and cedar notes, balanced tannins and great length. This is the top wine of the range, and I purchased a few bottles to bring home. 


Bodega Finca Loranque is open for visits and tastings, and presents a great opportunity to learn about some of the well made wines of Castilla-La Mancha. For more details, see the Travel Essentials section below. 


The #InLaMancha campaign was created and sponsored by Turismo Castilla La Mancha in partnership with iambassador. The London Foodie maintains full editorial control over all content published on this site as always.

Travel Essentials

Molinos de Viento de Consuegra (Windmills of Consuegra)
45700 Consuegra
Toledo
Spain

Café La Antigua
Plaza España, 5
45700 Consuegra
Toledo
Spain

Museo Casa de Cervantes
Plaza Miguel de Cervantes, 0
45221 Esquivias
Toledo
Spain

Bodega Finca Loranque
S/N 45593
Toledo
Spain

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Friday, 17 February 2017

The London Foodie Goes to Spain’s Castilla-La Mancha – Theatres, National Parks and a Fabulous Lunch at Mesón El Bodegón!


The region of Castilla-La Mancha is one of Spain’s lesser-known jewels, though I discovered on a recent trip there an incredible richness of culture, culinary and otherwise.


Home to Miguel de Cervantes (the Shakespeare of Spain), the wondrous Windmills of Consuegra as featured in Don Quixote, and the most important cathedral in the country in Toledo, Castilla La Mancha is also a melting pot of Christians, Jews and Muslims making it one of the most culturally exciting and diverse places in Spain. 


I have written about the best restaurants in Toledo, Spain’s Gastronomic Capital of 2016, in a previous post which you can read here. Today I am sharing my other experiences of Castilla-La Mancha in the beautiful town of Almagro, known as the Theatre Town, the nearby Parque Nacional de las Tablas de Daimiel, and a fabulous lunch I enjoyed at Mesón El Bodegón.


Almagro

In the province of Ciudad Real in Castilla-La Mancha, Almagro is considered to be one of the most beautiful towns in Spain. Its heyday was in the 15th and 16th centuries, when the Fugger family (bankers to King Carlos V) lived in the town.


With cobblestoned streets and whitewashed walls on the centuries-old buildings, walking through it felt like stepping into a scene from a Pedro Almodovar film, who in fact is one of Castilla-La Mancha most notable sons. 


I was amazed by the gorgeous Plaza Mayor, the town’s highlight, with its fine arcaded and colonnaded buildings, each with green-framed windows, a legacy of the Fugger family’s influence.   


We arrived in the midst of a public fiesta – old ladies sat together crocheting lace – a specialty of the town. People were painting, kids were running around, giving an inspiring insight into the community living in Almagro. 



On one side of the square is the Corral de Comedias, a 16th century open-air theatre which regularly hosts performances of classical Spanish theatre. 


There were no performances on the day I was there, but travellers can still visit during the daytime and so I checked it out. It is a fascinating spot and the only theatre in Spain of this period. It is the Spanish equivalent of London’s Globe Theatre, except that it is an original building, not a recreation. 


Also worth a visit are the town’s Teatro Municipal de Almagro which was magnificently restored in the 1970s, and the National Museum of Theatre. 


These are among the venues of the Almagro’s International Festival of Classical Theatre, which takes place each July, and is a great opportunity for theatre lovers. For 2017’s full programme, visit the Festival’s website here.


Almagro is a charming town, where the pace of life seems to have gone unchanged for centuries. It is a great place to immerse yourself in the way of life of people in this part of Spain, with a proud, strong and interesting cultural heritage. 


The National Park of Tablas de Daimiel 

The Tablas de Daimiel is a huge area of protected marshland, located in the heart of La Mancha region. Created by the overflow where two rivers (the Guadiana and the Cigüela) meet, it is one of the most important wetlands in the world, with an impressive diversity of wildlife and stunning landscapes.  


I was there in Spring, and was able to see a huge range of multi-coloured birds and waterbirds rearing their young. Great-crested grebes, herons, egrets and Iberian ducks are common visitors here.  


The National Park of Tablas de Daimiel is a great place for walking through meadows of wild flowers, hiking, bird-watching or just chilling out, and I highly recommend a visit.



Lunch at Mesón El Bodegón

Headed by brothers Chef Rubén and award-winning Sommelier Ramon Sanchez-Camacho and their mother Maria Infante, Mesón El Bodegón is one of the top restaurants in Daimiel. I had a fantastic 9-course tasting menu there at the staggeringly good value price of €44, plus €20 for a matching wine flight. 


In the little town of Daimiel, the restaurant may not look much from its exterior, but the quality of its food is superb and the cavernous wine cellar is a sight to behold. The site was the family’s winery from 1795 to 1975 before being converted into a restaurant. 


We started with a visit to the wine cellar, and a glass of local bubbly expertly sabraged by Ramon. 


Returning to the dining room, our Manchego (of La Mancha) culinary adventure began. There were so many highlights - I thoroughly enjoyed his green and black foie “olives” with delicate skins made from apple (green) and sweet wine (black), served with chorizo migas and marmalade, olive oil and saffron.


Another noteworthy dish was Rubén’s delectable version of Castilian soup, a rather rustic affair normally made with egg yolk, ham, paprika and garlic. Here, it was elevated to another level with a delicate quail egg yolk, steamed garlic, saffron, and Iberico ham.


Next up was a super-crispy morsel of octopus, utterly tender on the inside, served with the chef’s red wine mayonnaise.


A month-old kid (baby goat) was meltingly soft, cooked sous-vide at 40°C for 18 hours, and served with chanterelle and perrichicos mushrooms, and a velvety carrot cream.  


I was very impressed by the quality of Rubén’s cooking, and the lightness and sophistication of his dishes. He explained that many of these dishes were his reinterpretation of La Mancha’s food classics. I highly recommend Mesón El Bodegón, if you are visiting the region, please see the restaurant details in the Travel Essentials section.


The #InLaMancha campaign was created and sponsored by Turismo Castilla La Mancha in partnership with iambassador. The London Foodie maintains full editorial control over all content published on this site as always.


Travel Essentials

Almagro and Ciudad Real are about 2 hours drive or 50 minutes by train from Madrid.

Corral de Comedias
Plaza Mayor, 18
13270 Almagro
Ciudad Real
Spain

Almagro’s Municipal Theatre 
Calle San Agustín, 20
13270 Almagro
Spain

National Museum of Theatre
Calle Gran Maestre, 2
13270 Almagro
Spain

Almagro’s International Festival of Classical Theatre
http://www.festivaldealmagro.com

National Park of Tablas de Daimiel
Carr. a las Tablas de Daimiel
13250 Daimiel
Spain

Mesón El Bodegón 
Calle Luchana 20
13250 Daimiel
Cuidad Real
Spain
http://www.mesonbodegon.com

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