Dijon – Where to Eat in the Wine & Gastronomic Capital of Burgundy

Burgundy has always been a special place for me. It was the very first wine region I got to visit in France, when Dr G and I spent a magical week driving along the Route de Grands Crus (the wine route) from Dijon to Beaune and Macon, stopping at some of its famous villages, tasting the local wine and cuisine without a care in the world.

Looking back, that trip was in fact the catalyst for me to take up the study of wine in a more serious fashion. I still remember the Burgundy villages and wines I got to experience on that first trip more than 15 years ago – when it comes to wine, there is nothing better than learning in situ!

I was excited to return to Burgundy this month and spend three heavenly days discovering some of the best restaurants, wine bars and sights of its capital - Dijon. 

Located at the start of the Route de Grands Crus, where some of the best and most renowned wines of France are to be found, Dijon is also a super charming city. With a rich and exciting history, gorgeous architecture and top-notch eateries, it is not surprising that the city is one of the most interesting (and affordable) places to visit in France right now.

I got to do so much in Dijon in those 3 days, and will be writing about my experiences in the next few weeks – stay tuned to learn all about Dijon, its culture and historical sights, as well as the best places for wine tasting in the Côtes de Nuits. But firstly, I am sharing with you my top restaurant recommendations in the Burgundian capital.

Where to Eat in Dijon

Burgundy is renowned worldwide for a number of dishes - Escargots à la Bourgogne, Jambon Persillé, Boeuf Bourguignon, and Coq au Vin to name just a few. The cuisine is hearty and flavoursome, yet with a sophistication that has resulted in the award of Michelin stars to no fewer than 29 restaurants in Burgundy.

The region is blessed with some excellent produce – beef from the Charolais, prized chickens from Bourg-en-Bresse, Brillat-Savarin and Epoisse cheeses, Crème de Cassis and of course the eponymous mustard. Unlike other mustards, Dijon mustard powder is mixed with ‘verjus’ – the juice of newly pressed grapes – or slightly fermented white wine and is used extensively in cooking ‘Dijonnaise’ dishes.

 My first taste of one of these nourishing regional dishes, the classic ‘Ouef Meurette’ at Bistronomique in Dijon was a revelation – crusty chunks of fried bread, topped with poached eggs, and a rich Meurette sauce made from red wine, shallots and bacon.

Meurette is the sauce made for beef Bourguignon and it is said that Oeuf Meurette was created to use the delicious sauce from the previous night’s dinner.

One of my favourite meals, at a restaurant I highly recommend in Dijon, was at DZ’Envies. This is run by Chef David Zuddas, who is renowned for returning his Michelin star as he wanted to retain the freedom to experiment in cooking. Menus change every two weeks, and are offered in sets of 3, 4 or 5 courses priced from €31 to €37.

I had the 5-course set menu, which started with a delectable platter of foie gras with pumpkin and pomelo, followed by a super-light potato cream with tiny cubes of smoked fish which was delicate yet packed with flavour.

The highlight of the dinner however was the third course of snails with shredded sorrel, cubes of radish, toasted almond and snail mousse. For me, this was like a French chawan-mushi (Japanese savoury egg custard) with earthy flavours from the snails and myriad textures – a wonderful dish.

The main course was Bourg-en-Bresse chicken and cauliflower, with prawn and lobster sauce – the quality of the chicken was outstanding and I loved the creative surf and turf elements in this dish.

The cooking at DZ’Envies was innovative, using top regional ingredients and really packed in the flavours. But above all, it was excellent value for money and I highly recommend it.

Chef David Zuddas

I first tried Bernard Loiseau's trademark cooking in 2011 in Beaune at Loiseau des Vignes - it was a great meal I have remembered ever since (reviewed here).

So when I heard that they had a restaurant in Dijon, there was no doubt in my mind where I should come for lunch - Loiseau des Ducs opened only a couple of years ago in Dijon, and was awarded a Michelin star within 6 months of opening.

The story of the group is colourful - its founder, chef Bernard Loiseau, took his own life in 2003 as it was rumoured he had lost his 3rd Michelin star. His wife, Dominique Loiseau, took over the business which today includes the still 3-Michelin starred restaurant at the Relais & Chateaux hotel and spa Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu, plus 5 other restaurants and wine bars in Beaune, Dijon and Paris. She has transformed the business and grown it considerably, turning it into one of the most successful restaurant groups in France today.

I loved their interpretation of 'Ouef Meurette', with an egg yolk poached in olive oil at 64C so it was very soft, a mousse of egg whites, lardons, reduced red wine sauce, croutons, and mushrooms. A very refined and beautifully presented Ouef Meurette (see the original above from Bistronomique).

The main course was a super soft and succulent fillet of turkey in a truffle reduction, with pan-fried foie gras escalope and truffled mashed potatoes.

Dessert was an original recipe from Bernard Loiseau, and a signature dish at all his restaurants – a fine and delicate French apple tart with a green apple and vanilla sorbet and caramel

 My 4-course Bernard Loiseau Les Classiques menu at €62 (with matching wines) was nothing short of extraordinary and great value too. If you are planning a visit to Dijon Burgundy I highly recommend a meal at Loiseau des Ducs.

Another fantastic meal well worth a mention was at the intriguingly named Dr Wine restaurant and bar. Here small eats are partnered with some of the 400 labels on the wine list, 25 of which are available by the glass.

I briefly met the Japanese Chef Shoichi Ito, from Nagasaki, who before joining Dr Wine worked at Loiseau des Ducs.  Chef Ito is now cooking Burgundian cuisine paired with wines of the region.

Dr Wine is a casual bar - restaurant with high tables and stools and a busy vibe. For my visit, I started with a Cremant de Bourgogne, Domaine Huber-Verdereau (€6 per glass or €36 per bottle) from Meursault. This was 100% Pinot noir, an elegant biscuity wine with fine bubbles, served with a complimentary plate of sliced charcuterie.

Next up was a Bourgogne Aligote 2015, Domaine Bizikot (€5/€20) – the Aligote grape is a native Burgundian grape though less well known than the other regional white grape, Chardonnay. Aligote makes for younger wines that are fresh and uncomplicated, and ready to drink within a year of bottling like a Vinho Verde. A good Aligote like the one I tried at Dr Wine is easy drinking, crisp and with a light citrus note. I had it paired with fantastic fried French bread topped with melted Epoisse cheese, and fine slices of jambon (€5.50).

And now onto the reds, the 2011 Bourgogne G.O. P'tit Bonheur, from Domaine Prunier (€4/€16), was a Gamay, one of the Beaujolais grapes. This was a light organic wine, and with soft tannins, and one I could enjoy all night long – dangerously addictive!  It was paired with a delectable grilled breast of duck, sweet potato purée and cassis sauce (€8).

The beef Bourguignon (€7.50) came with an accompaniment of fettucini pasta served en cocotte. It was deliciously rich and well seasoned, and a perfect match for the elegant 2014 Maranges 1er Cru La Fuissiere, Domaine Bachelet-Monot (€9/36), made from Pinot Noir. So good was the wine, that I couldn’t help ordering a couple of local cheeses to finish it off – a generous slice of fine Epoisse and of Auvergne.

The food at Dr Wine was excellent – beautifully seasoned, well priced and portions were just the right size to be shared so that more options can be ordered from the menu. The wine selection was excellent too making Dr Wine a great place to visit in Dijon.

As you plan your trip to Dijon, bookmark this page and make sure to make a reservation at any of these restaurants for a taste of the best Bourgogne cuisine and wines in town.

The #VisitFrenchWine campaign was created and managed by Captivate in partnership with ATOUT FRANCE – France Tourism Development Agency. The London Foodie maintains full editorial control of the content published on this site as always.

Travel Essentials

Bistronomique - Le Grand Café
http://www.brasserie-legrandcafe.com/index-uk.html

DZ’Envies
http://www.dzenvies.com

Loiseau des Ducs
http://www.bernard-loiseau.com/en/houses/loiseau-des-ducs/dijon-loiseau-des-ducs.html

Dr Wine
http://www.drwine.fr

The London Foodie Goes to France - Biarritz and the French Basque Region

One of the most beautiful seaside towns in France if not in Europe, Biarritz has been an upmarket holiday destination for nearly 200 years, but more so since 1854, when Napoleon III had a summer palace built for his wife Empress Eugenie (now the Hôtel du Palais).

Thereafter, a stream of European royalty, politicians and the rich and famous flocked to Biarritz, giving the town a glamorous reputation that only a few other places in the world have enjoyed.

Nowadays, Biarritz is an elegant town, offering a beautiful seafront and wide promenade, along with some great shops, bars and restaurants. And today, you do not need a royal entourage to get there, with daily direct flights from Stansted with budget airline Ryanair.

Biarritz also has the closest international airport to the food Mecca of San Sebastián in Spain, around 40 minutes away by car, where we headed for the second part of this trip (to be featured soon).

Where to Stay

Hôtel du Palais (a Belmond Associate Hotel)

Built as a summer residence by Napoleon III for his Spanish wife Eugenie in 1854, the palace was sold and re-opened as Hôtel du Palais in 1893. The first guests were the royal families of many countries in Europe like the Prince of Wales (later Edward VII) as well as some of the most prominent people of their times including Sarah Bernhardt and Omar Sharif.

One of the most historic spots in town, Edward VII took an annual holiday at the hotel for a number of years, as did his son Edward VIII with Wallis Simpson, before and after his abdication.

Today, Hôtel du Palais is a Belmond associate hotel as well as a member of the coveted Leading Hotels of the World Collection, which include the most iconic hotels around the world. The hotel overlooks the Atlantic Ocean, at the end of the Grande Plage, Biarritz' main beach, and is an opulent building, visible from all over town. It has 120 rooms and 30 junior, royal and imperial suites, decorated in the style of the Belle Époque, a most impressive foyer, a bar and three restaurants.

Close to the lobby, the glamorous Imperial Bar is Biarritz’ favoured place for cocktails for locals and guests alike. We enjoyed some lovely drinks and aperitifs there one afternoon, and it is a great place for people watching and to soak up the wonderful atmosphere of the hotel.

The main restaurant, La Rotonde, had huge plate glass windows overlooking the ocean, offering the most beautiful views, and was where breakfast, lunch and dinner were taken.

The magnificent La Rotonde Restaurant at Breakfast

For a fine-dining experience, there was the one Michelin-starred Villa Eugenie restaurant. Next to the open air, heated salt-water pool was the informal Hippocampe restaurant, open only during the summer for informal buffet lunches.

Hippocampe Restaurant at Hotel du Palais

Great views of the sea, swimming pool and promenade from our suite at Hotel du Palais

We stayed in one of the hotel's sea-front Royal suites, the magnificent Sarah Bernhardt. Part of the original palace, the sumptuous and spacious living room had commanding views over the Grande Plage and its promenade, as well as the town centre.

With a classic French design, as well as opulent Louis XV furniture, crystal chandeliers, velvet drapes, antique mirrors and original artwork, the suite was one of the most elegant and luxurious I have stayed at.

The bedroom had a terrifically comfortable king-sized bed with silk drapes, a huge plasma screen TV, as well as original oil paintings and led to a magnificent marble covered, spacious bathroom, with separate bath and shower.

The hotel added a well-equipped five-floor spa in 2006, with a large indoor swimming pool, jacuzzi, sauna and gym.

There was also a Guerlain beauty parlour for a range of spa treatments and massages as well as a hair-salon.

The extensive grounds of the hotel included a small golf course, a children’s playground area, a gorgeous outdoor heated swimming pool and a private entrance to the promenade.

Breakfast at Hôtel du Palais, served at la Rotonde Restaurant, was probably one of the best meals of the day – there were various tables containing an assortment of local items including hams, cheeses, freshly cut fruit and juices.

Of note was an entire table dedicated to local cakes, tarts and pastries including my favourite gateau Basque au cerise which I could not get enough of.

The hot buffet was also excellent, even the scrambled eggs were consistently creamy which is quite an achievement when catering on this scale, I enjoyed a “Full Biarritz” both the mornings I was at the hotel.

The Full Biarritz

Possibly one of the most iconic hotels I have stayed in, Hôtel du Palais is the top hotel in Biarritz, and I cannot think of a better place to stay to soak up some of the history and glamour of this wonderful French seaside town.

Sunset at Hotel du Palais

Where to Eat

La Villa Eugenie, Hôtel du Palais

The Hotel's fine-dining, one Michelin-starred restaurant is La Villa Eugenie, run by Head Chef Jean-Marie Gauthier, who has been at the hotel since 1991. On the evening of our visit, there was a private dinner occurring at La Villa Eugenie, and so we ordered the restaurant's tasting menu (Menu de l'Imperatrice, €135 per person) served in the hotel's sea-front restaurant La Rotonde.

One-Michelin starred Eugenie Restaurant at Hotel du Palais

After a glass of Larmandier-Bernier Champagne (€20 per glass), and a couple of amuse bouche including some ethereally light allumettes of Parmesan, and creamy mussel and pumpkin veloute, we were served our first course – foie gras.

The duck foie gras from Landes was poached in Sangria, and served with fresh fig, desiccated fig and fig chutney. Beautifully presented with little squares of Sangria jelly and cracked black pepper, the foie gras was light and creamy and served with toasted brioche.

With it, we had a glass of Pinot Blanc from Alsace, Domain Barmes Buecher 2012 Rosenberg (€11 per glass) - a lovely off-dry wine with apricot flavours, good minerality and crisp acidity.

The fish course was Banka trout with olive oil, a Biscay tomato, onion and piquillo pepper sauce, and an emulsion of sweet green chilli piperade from Anglet, candied vegetables, and ham from local producer Michel Goicoechea. The trout was expertly cooked - still pink in the middle, and tasted delicious with the crispy ham and fried quail egg that accompanied it.

The wine for this course was an Orthogeneiss, from Domaine de l'Ecu, from Muscadet de Sevre en Maine, an organic wine (€11 per glass), made from Melon de Bourgogne grapes. With crisp, clean minerality, I found this was quite austere in contrast to the sweetness of the trout and candied vegetables.

The main course was veal sweetbreads, with sautéed butter, coriander, Paris mushrooms and nuts. The sweetbreads were splendid, creamy and delicately beefy in flavour, with delicious crystals of salt to tingle the tongue, and just a hint of ginger.

With the veal, we had a 2010 Marsannay, Pinot Noir, from Burgundy (€14 per glass). From brother and sister winemakers Meo-Camuzet, this was light in weight and tannin, but with plenty of red berry fruit flavours.

The cheese course came on a barrel-shaped trolley, mostly local but all from France, with cherry jelly. The selection of blue, soft and hard cheeses from cow, goat and sheep were excellent, and served at the peak of their condition.

For dessert, we had an apple vacherin, with apple tatin ice cream and honey granita. Creatively presented with sticks of white nougat, ropes of caramel and gold leaf, this was a clever way to present apple in a variety of textures. I enjoyed this with a glass of Jurancon, Camin Larredya from Jean Marc Grucette 2011, made with Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng grapes.

Our meal at La Villa Eugenie was excellent, and very well executed. This is a great choice in Biarritz, whether you are a hotel resident or not, and I highly recommend it.  

L'Impertinent

A 10 minute walk from the Hôtel du Palais, L'Impertinent is a small restaurant run by Sarah and Fabian Feldmann, and is the only other one-Michelin starred restaurant in town. We opted for the 7 course tasting menu, for €89 per person.

This kicked off with a stunning selection of amuse bouche including chickpea croquettes, duck ham with fig and celery, potato foam, smoked anchovy, cucumber and kimchi.

Next came steamed squid with green, yellow and red tomatoes, girolles and trompette mushrooms served with a highly intense tomato consommé.

To follow, we had smoked eel with fresh julienned apple, quince puree, beetroot leaves and brown millet (a cereal grain). I love eel, and it was a great treat to have it well prepared, outside the context of Japanese cooking. The acidity of the apple against the fish was a great combination.

We then had turbot from the nearby fishing port of Ciboure, roasted with coco bean and a quenelle of green peppers, cinnamon and basil with coconut milk, which was sublime.

After a palate cleanser of vodka sour, with mint granita, lemon sorbet and vodka meringue, we were on to the main course - squab pigeon of Madame Dibon, roasted on coals with cabbage, kale, beetroot and juniper. It is always such a lovely surprise to have well cooked pigeon, and this was a fine example - beautifully presented, flavoursome and with an excellent jus.

The menu included two desserts – the first was a kiwai (a miniature kiwi), with verbena granita, white chocolate ice cream, butter milk sorbet, avocado cream, and the aromatic herb agastache. This was followed by a chocolate and malt ice cream with Islay Whisky, sweet chestnut sorbet, whisky granita, moscovado crumble, ganache and honey cream.

Finally we had a selection of petit fours, including fruit pie with passion fruit and mango, chocolate truffle and saffron, and a Troprezienne brioche with white chocolate. The brioche is a cream-filled number invented in St Tropez, and was superb.

The food at L'Impertinent, Biarritz was excellent and at €89 for the seven course tasting menu, it was also good value. I highly recommend it.

Chez Albert

Chez Albert is a quayside fish restaurant recommended by Helene Darroze as one of her favourite spots in Biarritz. We enjoyed a lovely lunch there on our last day just before leaving for San Sebastian.

We started with a tartare de poisson (€16) with sliced tomatoes, Espelette pepper and green salad.  The raw fish tasted fresh but was sadly lacking in seasoning.

A better choice was Dr G’s langoustines with garlic mayonnaise (€22), which were also very fresh and well cooked.

For main, I went for pan-fried hake cooked Spanish style (€22), with crispy Bayonne ham and romesco sauce and served with a creamy mashed potato, which was also excellent.

We also had the sole meurniere (€28), a classic dish – simple in conception but one of the trickiest to deliver – Chez Albert’s was faultless.

All in all, this was a great lunch in a great location, although prices were on the steep side considering the simplicity of the menu choices.

What to Do

There is plenty to do in and around the Hotel du Palais, as well as in the town of Biarritz. Most people come for the beach, and as well as swimming and sunbathing, there are numerous surf schools able to teach and equip those wanting to surf.

Unlike many seaside spots, Biarritz is a fully functioning town that continues to thrive even outside high season, and there are many bars, cafes and shops that are worth exploring. It is also a wonderful place from which to explore the Basque country, as well as being the closest international airport to San Sebastian in nearby Spain.

Visit Biarritz’ Covered Food Market - Les Halles (Les Halles 64200 Biarritz)

Near the old town, the food market is a great place to wander around, with superb quality fish and seafood, meat, cheeses, charcuterie and bread.  There is a great variety of fruit and vegetables, including fresh truffles and French patisserie.

Boozy Canneles

Stuffed Mozzarella

It is an ideal place to buy wonderful produce for a picnic, at very affordable prices, and is a must for any foodie wanting to learn more about the Basque country’s local produce.

Hire a car and visit the towns of the Basque Country

There is plenty to occupy several days in Biarritz, but if you would like to explore the towns nearby, hiring a car probably makes sense.  There are some great foodie things to do in the surrounding French Basque region.

Bayonne

Around 15 minutes drive by car, Bayonne is a beautiful medieval town with a gorgeous Cathedral, surrounded by meandering shopping streets, restaurants and cafes. The home town of the famous Bayonne ham, there are many places to try this fine local delicacy.

It is worth considering a visit to Pierre Ibaialde, a ham producer who offers free tours and tastings as well as the opportunity to buy direct from a producer. His shop is at 41 Rue des Cordeliers, 64100 Bayonne. www.pierre-ibaialde.com.

Espelette

Espelette chilli peppers are a key part of Basque cuisine, and we went to pay homage to its birthplace. This little town is picture postcard in appearance, and is also the main market town for the surrounding fields that grow the famous peppers.

Originally grown from a Mexican clone in the 17th century, the peppers have evolved to be somewhat milder than their Mexican cousins, and are prized for their delicate, fruity flavour in French cooking. There are many shops there that sell Espelette chilli peppers, either in powdered or whole dried form, and it is a great place to stock up for a third of the price you would pay in the UK.

Espelette chillies drying outside locals' homes

Sare

The small town of Sare is on the road between Espelette and St Jean de Luz and is a hiker’s paradise with more than 150km of marked hiking routes and caves, most of which were used by smugglers as the town is a mere couple of kilometres from the Spanish border.

My reason for visiting Sare was however a much less vigorous one – I was told that the best Gateau Basque were to be found there. And rightly so, the whole town smelled of this heavenly tart the moment we stepped out of our car!

Hotel Arraya at the town’s main square has an outdoor stall selling the gateau in different sizes filled with either pastry cream (au crème) or cherry jam (au cerise). These were exceptionally good – the pastry was dense and rich made from flour, ground almonds and plenty of butter and sugar.

This tart is so special that it has a museum dedicated to it in Sare – Le Musée du Gâteau Basque (www.legateaubasque.com). Highly recommended.

St Jean de Luz

A few miles away from Biarritz, heading south towards the border with Spain is the pretty fishing village of St Jean de Luz, with a magnificent sea front and sandy beaches.

Still a working port with fishing nets strewn across the harbour, this is also a lively town with lots of bars and restaurants serving the freshest and most local of fish.

Travel Essentials

There are direct flights with Ryanair from Stansted to Biarritz, and the airport is situated only a couple of miles outside the town centre.

Hotel du Palais (a Belmond Associate Hotel)

642000

Biarritz

France

www.hotel-du-palais.com

Room rates vary from €475 per night for a classic Biarritz view, to €650 for an ocean view double room. Suites are at a range of prices according their size and location, from €860 for a Biarritz view to €1,700 for an Imperial Suite, and the Royal Suites are priced on application.

Leading Hotels of the World Collection

http://www.lhw.com

L'Impertinent

5 Rue d'Alsace

64200 Biarritz

France

www.l-impertinente.fr

Chez Albert

Port des Pecheurs

64200 Biarritz

France

www.chezalbert.fr/en