Kitchen Influentials Lunch at Hix Oyster & Chop House

Words and Photography by Su-Lin Ong

The London Restaurant Festival 2012 (1-15 October) is replete with creative treats for seasoned omnivores.  This year's celebration featured the new Kitchen Influentials series.  These one-off Sunday lunches, especially for American Express card members, teamed up pairs of top chefs for double fun and surprises.

It was off to the lunch hosted by Mark Hix and Harvey Ayeliffe at Hix Oyster & Chop House in Smithfield that I went.

Harvey has worked with Mark for some 15 years, and more recently, together they opened Alfred's the Dunhill members' club in Mayfair.  So with these impeccably tailored creds, the day's lunch was full of dapper promise; no over-styling, no conceits.

Mark Hix's food is always about beautifully seasonal produce that is painstakingly sourced from choice suppliers.  Despite the restaurant being a mere toss of a pork scratching from Smithfield Market, Hix chooses to source his meat with a lot more fuss and attention.  There are Cornish clues around the place.

The dining room we sit in seems like the kind of canteen which butchers might like to feast in.  Shiny utility finishes, a solid, well-used bar and proper bright lights keep you gazing around the space, meeting the eye of fellow diners doing the same.  It seemed more like a lively weekday, with plenty of social bustling between tables - which is always allowed on these special occasions.  This is what Sunday lunch in the city should be like.  

All eyes eventually get darting to the wall art.  Hix is known for being a patron of contemporary art, with an astute eye for snaffling up pieces to adorn his restaurants.  He is a lucky, lucky man to have such available wall space with which to delight his diners.  It all fits without distracting from the purposeful look of the restaurant.  Paper table covers are always a good sign.  They clearly encourage a kind of informality: 'Don't mind it if you get messy'.  And we didn't.

So when lunch was served by our waiter with the perfect handlebar moustache, we knew it would end up being the type of Sunday session with a bit of boisterous banter flung round the table.  

We hushed for the first course of steamed Lyme Bay shellfish.  It was lightly prepared so that the individual flavour of each offering could be clearly tasted.  The single oyster which crowned the dish was quite simply enough, and made me think how any typical platter of six or 12 oysters so dulls your palate for anything else.  It started us musing about shoreline foraging and wanting to head for the seaside.  A zingy Gavi di Gavi complemented this dish, and had us nibbling again on the teasing ribbons of fried parsnip that had welcomed us to the table; not leaving those.

It was back to hedgerow and field for the next two courses.  Grouse was finely slivered into a salad, yet its dark gamey flavours still beat through.  It seemed a little on the dry side for those of us once-a-year grouse eaters, who only know how to slather on the gravy and bread sauce.  Never mind, subtle sharpness came from elderberries that we naughtily crushed into red stains on the plate.  

Next came the rib of veal, served in hunks that were sliced in a way that only someone truly skilled with a single curved swipe of a knife can manage.  This magnificent, honest meat was perfectly melting.  

By this point, a magnum had been placed on the table.  It had to be this magnum, instructed our host as he explained his choice to me.  Why such a name as Tonnix?  Well, Tonnix - a luscious Douro - was dreamed up by Hix and restaurateur friend Mitch Tonks.  The simple label was another clue that this was the host’s proud cellar choice.  It was not just any meandering of the pen; this was a Tracey Emin doodle.

Back on the foraging trail, we marvelled at the mountain of Autumn blackberries on the light-as-air apple pudding, and we thrilled like kids at the giant one hidden inside like a sixpence.  These were not uniform black blackberries on steroids, but wild looking, wind-beaten bounty, tinged with dark juicy pinks. Then arrived the cider brandy custard which was non-stop flowing.  We all insisted it needed continuous pouring for the sake of achieving a decent photo.  I am hoping the recipe will be in Mark Hix's new Baking book.

The sweet Jurançon we sipped alongside had notes of dessert apple too.

As for our host, Mark Hix, he was charming.  Comfortable with his guests whom he treated alike as old friends, he had plenty of time to sit and talk away. Wouldn't mind loitering on a street corner with him for a breath of fresh air, we thought.  I am always one to quiz people about the next treat in store, so I asked him to spill the beans.  I'm hopeless at keeping secrets - he doesn't know that, of course.

So as not to give too much away, all I can say is that the next Hix establishment is likely to be somewhere in West London.  W10?  W11?  Guessing from his keen eye for vintage detailing, it is likely to be an unloved space which he will gloss up again; a shell of a building he can fill with artwork and more, fine, discreet dining.  Well, I'll ask him again until he tells me.

What an afternoon.  I would have liked to stretch it to cocktail hour, to test the list of gentlemanly offerings.  Vintage cocktail trappings on the bar are always a sign that bartenders want to flex their skills.  But that makes for another visit, for sure.

It's time to leave.  The light sculpture in hot white neon by Tim Noble & Sue Webster that hangs on the back wall says it all about the ambience of this place.  
Still can't read it?
Put a mirror against this photo, and you'll get the message loud and clear.  
You'll agree.

The menu & wines
Steamed Lyme Bay shellfish with seashore vegetables

Wolsingham Estate grouse salad with elderberries
Slow roast Cumbrian rib of veal with Jerusalem artichokes, ceps and curly kale
Steamed blackberry and apple pudding with cider brandy custard

Gavi di Gavi Bric Sassi, Piedmont 2011 - Vibrant honeyed fruit-burst flavours.
Tonnix 2010 in magnum - This full-bodied, dark fruit wine is produced by Quinta de la Rosa at Pinhão in the Douro Valley. 
Domaine Cauhapé Symphonie de Novembre, Jurançon 2009 - Beautifully rewarding, both dry and sweet. Exotically perfumed.

Su-Lin Ong attended on behalf of The London Foodie and dined as a guest of American Express, Mark Hix, Harvey Ayeliffe and MHPC, 7 October 2012.
www.londonrestaurantfestival.com/amex

Hix Oyster & Chop House 
36-37 Greenhill Rents, Cowcross Street, London, EC1M 6BN 
Tel: 020 7017 1930
www.hixoysterandchophouse.co.uk

Words and Photography by Su-Lin Ong
Su-Lin Ong eats and drinks tirelessly in adventurous corners around town.  A great night out is one filled with the fun of guests making crazy conversation in any place with a vibrant, individual ambience. By day, Su-Lin is an entertainment, food and drink expert. Her work has spanned feature writing for international lifestyle magazines, through to music business and parliamentary consultancy.  She is also a trained cook. One of her first encounters with Luiz Hara, The London Foodie, was at a gourmet cooking dinner when he relegated her to 'making the salad'. Contact Su-Lin via The London Foodie or sulinong@slo-london.co.uk   Twitter: @sloLondon

The London Foodie Goes to Croatia - Rovinj

Croatia has been on my radar for some years - stories of great beaches, stunning Mediterranean islands and pretty towns were somewhat intriguing but whenever it came to choosing a holiday, I always ended up elsewhere.

That was until a few weeks ago, when I finally made it to the picturesque town of Rovinj, in the Istrian Peninsula, North-West of Croatia. Having spent a fantastic 4-day trip there, my only regret is not having visited it earlier.

Rovinj has a rich history dating back to Roman times, and was part of the Republic of Venice for over 500 years until 1797. Unsurprisingly, the old town has a very Italian feel to it, with similar architecture, narrow pedestrianised alleyways, clothing hanging out to dry from many windows, and a buzzing coffee culture with many cafes serving excellent espresso dotted around the town.

The harbour is beautiful, mooring many private yachts and other boats, but it is still very much used by local fishermen, many of whom I saw repairing their nets at the harbour's edge during my visit.

The town is dominated by the 18th century church of St Euphemia, and the weekend I visited was the saint's festival, so the place was heaving with locals and visitors. The town can be easily visited on foot, and is a stone's throw along the lovely harbour from the hotel Monte Mulini, where I stayed.

Where to Stay

Opened in 2009, Hotel Monte Mulini is one of the finest 5 star hotels in Croatia. The hotel's location is dramatic, overlooking the bay, and set into a forested hillside, with a sleek modern design featuring a glass wall over three levels with stunning views of the poolside and sea below. The hotel's interiors have a warm, soothing luxury created by the tasteful use of colours, fabrics, bespoke furniture and Croatian artwork throughout.

My room was elegant and spacious, with plenty of natural light and a huge bathroom. I loved the very discreet kitchen concealed inside a cupboard (so discrete I didn't find it until day 2). My room had a lovely view of the sea, and in fact all the bedrooms have a sea view.

The focal point of the hotel, though, is undoubtedly its infinity pool, which overlooks the Istrian sea. A good place to soak up the sun, read a book and relax after the hotel's sumptuous breakfast. 

The breakfast buffet is offered alongside cooked options including fried steak and eggs, all washed down with local sparkling Malvasia wine - an unusual breakfast treat typical of the region, which I really took a shine to! Croatians also love their cold meats and hams, and these were offered in abundance along with fresh cheeses, fish, fruit, and cereals.

The hotel's Art Wellness Spa offers a wide range of treatments including hot body wraps, vinotherapy tonification and various massage options. I was lucky enough to be able to try their holistic traditional massage one morning. It left me in a state of utter relaxation for the next few days, and I would highly recommend it.

The hotel has two different restaurants. Mediterraneo serves a la carte meals al fresco on the terrace or indoors. The Wine Vault restaurant in the hotel cellars offers Croatian fine dining, and is where I had one of the best meals of my stay.

Where to Eat

Hotel Monte Mulini's Wine Vault Restaurant

I knew very little about Croatian food before this trip, but suspected it consisted mainly of simple grilled meat and fish dishes. This latest trip has certainly taught me a great deal! Hotel Monte Mulini's resident chef Tomislav Gretic is leading a new wave in fine-dining on a par with many top notch restaurants in Paris and London. His repertoire is primarily French-Mediterranean, using good quality local ingredients, well made and beautifully presented. I would not be surprised were he to be awarded the first Michelin star in Croatia.

Tomaslav put together an impressive tasting menu to illustrate the region's top produce, including truffles, fish, crustacea and olive oil for our first dinner in Croatia. These were expertly paired with Croatian wines selected by Tom Harrow, The Wine Chap, who presented each wine during the dinner - a Herculean task, given that the hotel's list has more than 600 wines, of which over 90% are Croatian!

After an aperitif of Misal Rosé Sec (a fine blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Malvasia) , we had our first starter of Tuna and Avocado Puree, served with a glass of Malvasia, Istarska 2011, Vina Polleti, Istra, Hrvatska. Rather like a Japanese tataki, the tuna was seared on the outside but raw in the centre, served with semi-dried baby plum tomatoes and caramelised onions. It was ultra-fresh and delectable.

Next was Sea Bass Fillet with a Ragout of Cuttlefish, served with a glass of Posip 2009, Vinarija Grgic, Peljesac, Hrvatska. The fish was perfectly cooked, and judging by its fine texture and presentation, I suspect it was prepared sous vide.

The star of the dinner, for me however, was the Risotto with Black Truffles and Foie Gras, served with a raw egg yolk, and partnered with Cuvee Nevina 2009, Saints Hills Winery, Istra, Hrvatska. I loved the unctuous creaminess of the risotto and egg yolk, and the heady flavour of the black truffle combined wonderfully with the top quality foie gras.

I thought the presentation of the main course of Duck Breast, Cream of Potato and Mushrooms was dramatic and creative. The duck was tender and beautifully cooked, and I also enjoyed what the waiter described as 'edible earth' - I suspect this was toasted, ground rye bread or at least I hope so, as I cleaned my plate. To accompany our main, we had a glass of Modri Pinot 2003, Vina Movia, Gorkska Brda, Slovenia.

For dessert, we had Chef Tomaslav's take on the French classic Tarte Tatin, but using local Istrian plums rather than apples. Described as 'Plum and Butter', this was a light and refreshing dessert, partnered very appropriately with a glass of "Allegro" Muscat 2009, Vina Dobravac, Istra, Hrvatska.

Lone Hotel's Restaurant

Another great meal on this trip was at the Lone Hotel, sister to the Hotel Monte Mulini. The hotel opened in July 2011, and is Croatia's first member of the exclusive lifestyle brand Design Hotel AG. It is a strikingly modern building in the shape of an ocean liner, a playful reference to its Adriatic location.

Its restaurant offers a mixture of traditional Croatian and Mediterranean fusion-style food, with an impressive local wine list. The executive chef is Tomislav's wife, Priska Thuring. The restaurant has an a la carte section, and a seafood bar, as well as a Vinoteca offering wine and olive oil tastings and sales.

For our meal, we started with a trio - tempura asparagus, grilled scallop on black lentils, and pan-seared tuna on a salad of julienned peaches and radish. Next, we had a deliciously creamy but light bowl of cauliflower foam, with local truffle shavings and sashimi scampi which were totally delectable.

For main course, we had a fillet of dentex (a Mediterranean and Baltic deep-water fish), polenta with sun-dried tomatoes, prawn souffle and a brochette of monkfish wrapped in pancetta and spinach. I enjoyed the many elements on this plate - a pleasing array of small eats.

The dessert was mascarpone cream topped with fresh figs in a red wine reduction. It was light, refreshing and a delicious end to a tip-top meal.

Zigante Restaurant (specialises in truffles)

Following an afternoon of truffle hunting, we headed to Zigante, a local restaurant that specialises in truffle dishes. I am a sucker for truffles, so enjoyed this meal tremendously. I had a four-course dinner, each one with a truffle element. I kicked off with a quenelle of soft cheese seasoned with truffles, followed by a plate of fettucini pasta served with a cream and truffle sauce. The waiter was very generous with the sliced truffle topping, and for me this was the best dish of the evening.

The main course was, unfortunately, disappointing. We had chicken stuffed with truffles, wrapped in ham and roasted, with Parisienne potatoes and pan-fried mushrooms. Sadly, the chicken was a little dry, and the strong flavour combinations overwhelmed the fresh truffle. Dessert was an oddity of vanilla ice cream with truffles. I personally did not think this was a successful combination, although my dining companions seemed to have enjoyed it.

What to Do

Wine Tastings (Roxanich and Trapan Vineyards)

With so much to do in Istria, if you like your food and wine, it may be hard to find time to do anything else. I was only there for four days, and got to do a lot, but still felt I only scraped the surface. Croatia is a sizeable producer of quality wines, using interesting native grapes such as Croatian Malvasia and Teran. I was lucky to be with Tom Harrow, The Wine Chap, who took us to a couple of his favourite local wine producers.

Roxanich (www.roxanich.hr) is a biodynamic wine producer in the nearby town of Nova Vas. The founder, Mladen Rozanic, was kind enough to show us around, and give us an extensive barrel tasting of his latest vintages. His wines are aged for at least 3 years (whites) to 4 years (reds). According to Mladen, the white wines they make are orange wines due to their long maceration period (the time in which the skin has contact with the grape juice while fermentation begins), and in addition, being a biodynamic producer, his wines undergo no filtering or fining which give them a lightly cloudy finish. I really enjoyed these wines, his white Malvasia was stunning, but my favourites were the reds - particularly the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 2008 Super-Istrian (a witty reference to the 'Super-Tuscan' label that indicates a blend of classic French - in this case, Merlot & Cabernet). Mladen is happy to accept private bookings for wine tours.

Trapan (www.trapan.hr) is run by a young producer, Bruno Trapan, who barely ages his wines. His wines are well made, and more immediately appealing, being made in a modern, international, easy-drinking style. His reds are made from the native Teran grape, or from 100% Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, or a blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and Teran. Trapan's whites as well as roses are made from Croatian Malvasia and Chardonnay.

Truffle hunting (Livade)

Besides wine tasting, there are some other interesting foodie activities to be experienced. One of these is truffle hunting in the nearby town of Livade. The registered truffle hunter and his dog took us deep into the forest, and we (or should I say the dog) were lucky enough to find two sizeable truffles within the first hour. The Hotel Monte Mulini can arrange a truffle hunting trip for you during the season. We followed this truffle hunting with dinner at a restaurant specialising in truffles, Zigante, as reviewed above.

Olive Oil tasting (Chiavalon)

We were treated to a very educational olive oil tasting at Chiavalon. Interestingly, there are many similarities between the techniques of olive oil and wine tasting. Bouquet, flavour characteristics and length are also considered when tasting olive oil. However, unlike with wine, colour is no guide to the quality of the oil, because this is predominantly determined by the colour of the earth. We learned that olive oil cannot be kept for more than two years from production, otherwise it will go rancid. Top quality Istrian olive oil does not come cheap, and the ones we tried at Chiavalon retail at £13 for 500ml.

Non-foodie activities not to be missed while in the region include a boat trip to nearby Lim Fiord, visiting or cycling around Rovinj, visiting the neighbouring town of Pula and its magnificent Roman amphitheatre, and one of the many spa treatments at Hotel Monte Mulini.

Having spent a fantastic 4 days in Rovinj, Istria, I cannot believe it has taken me so long to visit this country. Four days are really not enough to take in all that there is in this north-western corner of Croatia. I cannot wait to return but next time for a week or two. Highly recommended.

Travel Essentials

Hotel Monte Mulini - room rates from €276 including breakfast and VAT for a premium double room, including free WiFi, complimentary parking, use of spa facilities, and complimentary refreshments on arrival. For further information or reservations, please visit www.montemulinihotel.com or call +385 (0)52 636 000

Hotel Lone - room rates start at €150 for a double room, including breakfast and VAT. For further information or reservations, please visit www.lonehotel.com or call +385 (0)52 632 000

Restaurant Zigante, Livade 7, Livade is at www.restaurantzigante.com

Roxanich D.O.O (Mladen Rozanic) is at Kosinozici 26, 52446 Nova Vas, HR. Website www.roxanich.hr

Trapan Winery (Bruno Trapan) is at Giordano Dobran 63, Sisan 52100, Croatia. Website www.trapah.hr

Truffle hunting costs €120 per hour, or €350 per half day, and participants get to keep the truffles

The Art Wellness Spa at Hotel Monte Mulini has an extensive menu of treatments, but for example the holistic traditional massage I had lasts 60 minutes, and costs 420kn (approximately £42).

Hotel Monte Mulini organises a wide variety of half or full day private tours in the area, including Pula and its amphitheatre, the Roman colony at Porec, day trips to Venice by car, boat or hydrofoil, the UNESCO World Heritage site of the Plitvice Lakes National Park, and a full day motor boat tour of the Brijuni Islands National Park. Prices are available direct from the hotel. If you have your own or a hire car, you can do many of these trips by yourself.

Rovinj can be reached from the UK, by flying to Trieste, Ljubljana, Zagreb or Rijeka, but the closest airport is Pula (served by Ryanair), an easy half-hour transfer from Hotel Monte Mulini.

Many thanks to Louise Rogers of Quatro PR and Tom Harrow (The WineChap) for their kind invitation and hospitality in Croatia.

London Supper Club Review - Two Hungry Girls

Words & Photography by Simeen Kadi

Leigh and Shuwen are the Two Hungry Girls and they are on a mission. Since their first supper club launched in February this year they have brought their own take on Modern Chinese and South East Asian cuisine to the London dining scene. With supper clubs hosted about once a month at their home in North London, and occasionally at other venues, tickets sell fast and the quality of their cooking is the main reason why. And, as the Two Hungry Girls also host dinners in aid of the charity Action Against Hunger, helping bring nutrition and hygiene to poor communities in Africa, it is a double-win for diners.

The venue seats two tables of eight which allows you to get to know your fellow diners and is also buzzy enough to feel like a convivial dinner party. The food is mostly served ‘home style’, meaning large platters and bowls are passed around the table and shared.

To start, we were served a Lychee Liqueur, a shot glass containing a peeled lychee filled with lychee wine and lemongrass - a refreshing and aromatic aperitif.

Then came the Cold Silken Tofu with Century Egg Sauce, an ingenious dish offering the intense flavour of Century egg as a sauce, rather than the slightly scary vision of a sliced green and black boiled egg  – the most common way this Chinese delicacy is served. The sauce was smooth and rich, combined with sesame paste, poured over the silken tofu and then studded with chillies.

Poached Chicken with Two Hungry Girls Sauce was chicken delicately cooked in stock and annointed with a sauce zinging with ginger and spring onions. Lettuce came alongside to make our own fresh wraps.

The Two Hungry Girls were determined none of their guests would go hungry and delivered a third starter, 5-spiced Sichuan Peppercorn Gressingham Duck Mantou Buns. Mantou is the Chinese word for steamed buns, says Wikipedia, and these were pillow-soft and stuffed with tender shreds of duck confit. It was Gressingham duck, known for its low fat and tender meat, owing to the free range treatment the birds get on farms in Suffolk and Norfolk. And, as Gressingham is a cross-breed of Wild Mallard and Pekin, it is perfect for Chinese roast and braised duck dishes. The shredded duck legs in the buns were rich with five spice, Sichuan pepper, ginger and garlic and the slices ofGranny Smith apple stuffed into the buns provided the perfect contrast. Another classic Chinese dish executed with a great twist.



For me, the highlight of the savoury courses was the Slow-Braised Pork Belly, rich nuggets of meat which were sticky with a reduction of soy. The meat was dense and unctuous with the sweetness of caramelisation contrasting the salty soy. I could have eaten a lot more of it.

Photo courtesy of Edible Experiences

Shrimp, Cabbage and Vermicelli was fine, with a light sauce and perfectly cooked shrimps. I think probably one dish too many and the one I would sacrifice to save guests from feeling overly full.

Next came the Teochew-style Braised Gressingham Duck which was tender slices of whole duck which had been slow braised in light soy, five spice and ginger. The meat was delicate and beautifully aromatic and came with boiled egg halves dipped in soy sauce.



Aubergine and Bamboo with Dried Shrimp and Garlic Vinaigrette came next. Known as Brinjal in Malay and Indian cooking, the aubergine was yielding and well flavoured with chilli and garlic and a dipping sauce of garlic and vinegar came alongside.



The final main dish did not disappoint, even though we were all dangerously full by now. Deep Fried Mackerel with Lemongrass Sambal delivered nuggets of fleshy mackerel wrapped in a banana leaf with a zesty and spicy sambal and slices of lime. The sambal was a perfect foil for the mackerel, lightening its rich fishiness and providing a sharp contrast.



Both the desserts were superb and beautifully presented. This might have something to do with the fact that Leigh is a trained patissiere and has worked at some of the city's most respected restaurants before setting up her own cake and pastry making classes. The Soya Bean Milk Pannacotta and Black  Sesame Sauce was one of the creamiest, silkiest pannacottas I have tasted and came surrounded by the earthy sesame sauce and a croquant of caramelised peanuts.



And the profiteroles were even better –  light pastry filled with fragrant coconut ice cream and covered with salted caramel fondant. This was a delicious fusion of East and West and a beautiful ending to the meal.



Details: Look for Two Hungry Girls on www.edibleexperiences.com and Facebook

Cost: £29 per head of which £12 went to Action Against Hunger http://www.actionagainsthunger.org.uk. BYO wine with pairing suggestions from www.Grogger.co.uk

Likes: Delicious and well executed cooking served in an informal, dinner party setting. Plus a chance to do some good for world hunger.

Dislikes: None.

Verdict: Expertly cooked Chinese and Malay cooking at a very reasonable price by two passionate and lovely cooks (and their helpers!) at a very reasonable price, especially when a donation to charity is included.


A guest post by Simeen Kadi
Simeen Kadi is a technology marketer and a bonne vivante. She has recently begun sharing her dining and drinking exploits as a guest reviewer, writing about food, cocktails and fun times from around the world. Simeen lives in and is in love with London.